Posts in Wine Club
May Wine Club

Responsible Indulgence—May 2023 Wine Notes 

Spring seems to be moving by at a far too rapid pace, so let’s slow down and enjoy this shoulder season and all that it brings.  For me, it is all about the senses; the electric green of our budding trees, the scent just after a heavy rain, that perfect color of blue that makes flip flops seem like a good idea, and the taste of fresh local spring vegetables. Yes, I have had a few asparagus, some radishes, and loads of fresh herbs added to the salad mix. This makes me look at the table with fresh eyes, and I love that task.  So, I have some new wines for you, along with a few new vintages of perennial favorites, but all of them are perfectly paired with the flavors, colors, and scents of spring.  I hope you enjoy! 

If you are at the summer Aquidneck Grower’s Market on Wednesdays starting Mary 17th, come say hi!  I will have a table with lots of cool local cheeses & fresh bread! Feel free to park at the shop to walk over to the market on Memorial, so you can easily grab a bottle of wine to enjoy with dinner. 

My picks for May are driven by the season, but also and always by quality of flavor, intensity, and complexity, as well as the ethos with which the wine is made.  I seek wines of character made by people who care about the environment, people, and economic sustainability.  At all levels this is my goal.  Value wines are no exception.  In truth, they are often harder to find, so they are all the more satisfying when I do.  Yes, it is an economic reality that to make wine of character and to do so working with artisanal techniques is just more costly.  The labor involved in tending vineyards organically, hand harvesting grapes to ensure quality, and to work in the winery on a small enough scale to allow for all the work to be done with minimal intervention all adds cost.  How do you do that, and keep the wine at roughly $15 retail?  It is not easy.  Often it means, selecting lesser-known varietals from parts unknown, but this month, I found three gems that you will recognize and surely enjoy. 

Value Wines 

The 2020 Acentor Garnacha is made by Isaac Fernandez in collaboration with Aurelio Cabestrero.  These two men are working hard to elevate Spain’s recognition on the world stage.  This Garnacha Tinta is grown in Calatayud and is an indigenous grape of the region.  The character of this wine is surely a result of the 30-80+ year-old vines grown in iron rich clay soils. Its aromatics will invoke early wild blueberries, orange peel, and a touch of spice, and its medium body makes it very food flexible.  It is grown at a high elevation which means cooler nights, and the result is a wine that is ripe without being flabby.  It is still fresh and just a little grippy.  Try it with grilled chicken rubbed with harissa! 

If you feel like something cold and refreshing , there are two options in the Value 3 pack that are new vintages of perennial favorites.   The 2021 Atlantique Sauvignon Blanc is, as always, crisp, fresh, and mouth watering.  The vibrant exotic fruits and citrus aromatics on the nose and the palate make this ideal for a cheese platter at your first polo outing or beach picnic.  Fabrice Gouraud harvests at full ripeness to give you a crowd pleasing zesty and delicious Loire Sauvignon Blanc that speaks of the ocean breezes that cool the grapes along the western coast. 

The 2022 Jouclary Rosé needs little introduction.  I have had these wines in my store since I opened fifteen years ago, and I look forward to the rosé release every Spring.  Maybe it has something to do with the cotton candy wispy pink hue of the wine, or perhaps it is timing, often the first to show up in the early Spring.  Or perhaps, it is because the wine has complexity of berry, citrus, curd, and melon, with a grassy hint, it is elegant in color, and it is consistent in its affordability.  You don’t need food with this one, just chill it, put a big sweater around your shoulders, find a spot to watch the sunset, and crack it open with some friends! 

The other value wines are equally as enchanting this month.  The 2020 Chateau Grand Billard is classic Bordeaux at a very reasonable price point. It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc that sees a little time in oak, so you will want some food with this one.  It has powerful blue fruits both fresh and cooked balanced with earthy flavors that will make your mouth water and some tannins to chew on.  Throw a steak on the grill, or a medley of mushrooms, or even a burger.  The tannins will soften with some fat, so put gruyere on that burger! 

2021 Passionate Wines Del Mono Tinto has been in the club before, but this new vintage bears repeating. This Malbec and Syrah blend is made with co-fermented hand harvested fruit from the Uco Valley in Mendoza.  Yes, it is time for some more robust reds.  Whether you choose all veggies or not, use some spice with this wine.  It has spice of its own that integrates beautifully with the blackberry and plum and the ample tannins, and all that calls for food that adds a little more spice.  You could try it with Indian or Thai, and of course grilled meats would be the easy regional pairing and would not disappoint you. 

To complete the six pack, the 2021 Cora Pinot Grigio is a breath of fresh air—like that first time you open the doors and windows to let the cool, Spring air flush out the corners and refresh your space!  It is crisp and clean with floral and citrus and touch of mandarin orange peel.  The wine is an incredible value, coming to us from the importer, David Bowler, with fruit sourced from Abruzzo on a sustainable vineyard.  The grapes are grown organically without any irrigation at a farm that is powered by wind and solar.  It is an inspiring story.  The wine is made with all efforts toward freshness, and they nailed it!  Rarely does an inexpensive Pinot Grigio excite, but this one will wake you up.  Try it with some fresh local grilled seafood and a light fresh pasta primavera! 

Select Wines 

In keeping with the freshness of Spring, the 2020 Terrasol Trace is a new wine for Rhode Island, and I am thrilled to have it.  This is another example of a small importer who very carefully curates his portfolio, prioritizing quality and character of wine over volume.  The wine makers, Giorgio and Stefano, are committed to making wine that is a true expression of the terroir of Sicily, capturing the combination of sun and land. The intensity of sun and the unique soil composition create wines that express the fierce conditions, the fortitude of the culture, and the warmth of the people.  Yes, I am biased, but the wine supports my affection.  It is a blend of Syrah and Nero d’Avola that come together in a smooth, rich red with bursting berry and fresh cherry notes, supple body and soft tannins. Get a pizza and enjoy this one without over-thinking the pairing. 

For Sunday afternoon while you are gardening, open the 2021 L'Écaillier Muscadet from the Loire.  The grape is Melon de Bourgogne, and the wine is light, fresh, with loads of aromatics fruits and florals that will swirl in your imagination.  There is a beautiful tension between fruit and minerality in this wine, which gives it a delightful mouth feel.  The acidity will require a piece of cheese, and I suggest the Chabichou de Poitou and a little of Eat This Flaming Raspberry jam on a salty cracker! 

If you are fixing a big salad as frequently as I am these days, you will need a rosé.  The 2022 Mas de Vé is delightful to sip on while you prep and while you enjoy crunching away on that salad.  It has a vein of acidity that runs through the wine that is gently integrated, so the wine is not jarring but rather smooth and fresh.  “Vé” is a local Provencal expression, loosely translated as, “Look at that!” An expression that I use all too often this time of year, each time I turn a corn and witness something else in bloom. The combination of dry, but fruity, zippy, but smooth will make you do just that!   

The next two wines come from the Vignerons de Buxy Bourgogne, which is an ambitious project designed by a large pool of winemaking families in the Cote Chalonnaise in Burgundy to support the values of traditional wine making.  I love the story of their collaborative effort. 120 families have worked together for nearly 100 years in harmony with nature, maintaining and continuing their regional, traditional methods of viticulture and vinification.  In coming together, all the families prosper. There is a lesson in this kind of collaboration. 

The 2021 Bourgogne Blanc is a beautiful Chardonnay from Cote Chalonnaise.  It has balance, freshness and minerality.  It will capture you first with its pale golden vibrant yellow, and then its aromatics will compel you further.  It has a wonderful predominant citrus that mixes with melon and apple, and just a hint of oak, that gives it a subtle complexity.  It would be wonderful with a tart and a salad, goat cheese, or grilled vegetables. The 2020 Buxy Bourgogne Rouge is 100% Pinot Noir and is equally elegant and satisfying.  It is a good choice for an introductory French Pinot because the wine is very approachable, by which I guess I mean that it is easy to understand, but don’t confuse that with simple.  The fruit is pure, smooth, fresh, with red cherry, black currant and a touch of cassis, all of which is balanced by some earthiness and brightness of acidity, with elegant tannins.  It would pair with the same foods as its white varietal very well but could also match nicely with a grilled steak. 

I cannot help myself, the De Forville Barbera returns to the club list with the new 2021 vintage.  It is stunning. Youthful, but intended to drink that way.  Lay down that Barbaresco and pop this one open while you wait! This is yet another inspiring wine story about a family that is committed to maintaining the standards and techniques of five generations of wine makers.  They believe very strongly that their work is to protect the heritage of the territory of Barbaresco.  I would argue that their Barbera is their best value wine, and it is so easy and fresh.  I love them all, but this is the go-to for almost any meal.  It has all the fruit that makes it pair well with meats, no surprise for the region, but also a freshness that makes it ideal for vegetables and pasta dishes.  I paired it with Melisa Clark’s Spring Pasta with peas and asparagus, loads of parmigiana and some crème fraiche.  It was delightful! 

For the Collectors 

I thought it would be interesting to have two wines from the same chateau for side-by-side comparison.  The primary label is the 2019 Chateau Le Puy Emilien, and their second label is the 2020 Duc des Nauves. The wines are age worthy, though both drinking well now.  These wines are available, and would be worth investing in. 

Both wines are estate grown and bottled, they are biodynamic, and they are made without any additional sulphur.  In fact, Le Puy was the first estate to register organic in the region.   

To begin with, Le Puy is situated on the very same plateau as Saint Emilien and Pomerol, same soils and conditions.  It sits on the second highest elevation in the Gironde at about 350 feet above sea level.  Soil is a composite of clay, silex, and limestone and has a very high acidity.  All of this contributes to the freshness of wine that makes the wine unique, balanced, and complex.  The 50+ year age of the vines also contributes to the intensity and complexity.  They only use indigenous yeast, all natural fermentation and all in accordance with the lunar cycle. The wines spend approximately 24 months in barrel before bottling without any filtering or fining.  

The 2019 vintage began with a moderate winter, which spilled into a pleasant early spring, but by mid April there were threats of frost.  Growers lit candles to fight back against the cold temperatures.  A few nights hit zero and had winemakers very worried.  That said, by the start of summer, the weather was dry and sunny and warm, the ideal conditions for growing with cool nights, allowing the acids to build. Good rain in July provided necessary water, and then August and into September was dry, as is the desired condition to finish the growing season.  All harvesting is done by hand.  The 2019 has great aromatics, a nice concentration of fruit, and ripe tannins that will provide the structure for aging.  All of that said, the wine is a rockstar at a relatively affordable price point.  It is a favorite of mine because of the family’s commitment to biodynamic farming and organic wine making.   

The 2020 vintage conditions were quite good through the spring after a very moderate winter. There were some heavy rains in the early summer, which effected some vineyards with mildew, but those who were unscathed, were able to harness that moisture to provide hydration through a hot, dry summer.  For most, the water reserve made for a fortuitous finish despite the ensuing period of drought. Those well positioned vineyards, they produced wines of great complexity and good acidity, supple tannins, and age worthy structure.  Bourdeaux announced the vintage a third great season in a row, but we are only really beginning to test that out.  The Duc des Nauves certainly supports that theory.  It is drinking great now with beautiful fruit on the front and midpalate that carries through with exceptional, complex flavors.   

I have always been a fan of Bordeaux, but rising prices challenge that affection.  These two bottles help correct that.  While they are not cheap by any stretch of the imagination, they are priced fairly for exceptional wines that will elevate any meal.  These are food wines, for sure, so make a special meal to pair with them.  I am inclined to pair these with traditional, regional specialties like steak au poivre, roasted duck, or lamb with a fabulous gratin.   

I hope the wines for May elevate your table and expose you to new flavors. Take a moment next time you open one to say, “well, look at that,” or simply “Vé!”  Watch the wine pour into the glass, inhale deeply to receive the aromatic before sipping, stay in the moment for just a few seconds and enjoy a peaceful sip to refresh your palate and bring a breath of freshness to your meal. Life is too short to rush. 

Cheers, Maria 

Responsible Indulgence--January 2022 Wine Notes

 

Responsible Indulgence—January Wine Notes 

It is a new year, and I don’t care what is going on in the world, it brings me hope, excitement, and optimism to see the turn of the new year.  Let’s imagine the very best that is possible and plan for it. 

With that in mind, I picked some wines that will call on me to cook, to join with friends, to celebrate life, and to imagine the best life we can live.  “You may call me a dreamer, but I am not the only one...” 

I recently had a meal that reminded me that joining at a table, welcomed to nourish, to indulge, to enjoy and to smile while we eat together is just about the most basic and the most wonderful thing we can do. So, with that spirit in mind, I selected wines for the table.  I will share my suggestions for pairing, but let me know what you cook with these wines.  I need inspiration, too. If you are on social media, post your meal masterpieces on IG and tag us @newportwinenchz. 

Cheers, Maria 

As always, the Value 3Pack is fun to select.  It is not necessarily easy to find 3 wines at this price point that will make you tilt your head slightly to the left and say, “wow, this is actually really good,” but that is my goal.  I am pleased with my efforts this month, with three wines that will please you and give you some inspiration to cook.  The 2020 Jouclary Rosé from Cabardès which is in the southwest of France, is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Grenache, and Cinsault. It is that soft salmon color wine that invites you to sip away, but it will surprise you with its flavor and depth.  It is robust in flavor with a touch of strawberry and pomegranate, and it has a fresh, clean citrus finish that will likely make you long for summer but also appreciate its capacity for a winter meal. 

The 2020 Hugl Gruner Veltliner will lift your spirits with its fresh lime and apple notes. It makes me feel as if I just bit into a crisp green apple, and the snap of its skin releases a zesty, appealing spray of juicy that is lip smacking. It has a surprising intensity, so be prepared for that. It is a white that is well suited for more intense flavors, and pairs wonderfully with fish, but wants some backbone, so to speak. I suggest some roasted black sea bass, but grilling will work well, if you can get out in the cold!  

If it is red you seek, the 2019 Aplanta Tinto from the south of Portugal will warm the soul and your palate. It comes from a rustic community, Maurao, which is agrarian and quite untouched by modern culture. The grapes are sourced from a community vineyard, which links the people of Aldeia da Luz. The varietals are Aragones and Alicante Bouschet, planted in sandy, loam soil, just 250m above the sea level. There is a freshness to this abundantly flavored wine that I would argue is the effect of its proximity to water. The gentle ferment, and cold soak preserve the freshness. It is dark red in color and has lush aromatics of berry and plum, touch of pepper and spice, which in combination with its freshness makes for a complex and appealing red, ideally suited for red meats or bean stews. I think it would be great with a spicey chili. 

Rounding out the Value Picks for January, I added the 2018 Owen Roe, Mirth Chardonnay. Mirth, by definition means happiness often associated with laughter, and the movement of the bird on the label bespeak this cheerfulness. The wine also has a bright cherry quality to it, with a fresh, crisp expression of chardonnay. There is no oak on this one, folks, so give a chance to show you what unadulterated chardonnay tastes like. You will be surprised by flavors of quince and green apple, maybe a touch of pineapple. It would be great with a pot of fondue! 

The two reds in the additional value level are both selected for the spice they offer. These two wines are an example of how you can get a similar character from two vastly different wine in terms of style. The 2019 Curator Red is from the Swartland of South Africa, located in a granite outcropping of a mountain range. Despite the low yields and challenging growing conditions, Adi Badenhorst has a unique ability to craft a very drinkable and satisfying red wine at a great value. This is a Shriaz, Mouvedre, Pinotage, and Cinsault blend, combining to make a supremely drinkable, full body red with straightforward character and a touch of spice on the finish that gives the wine a gentle complexity. The 2019 Vegas Altas Tempranillo shares that spice, but in a medium body red that is rich in black fruits, plush on the palate and refreshing. Both of these wines avoid oak, so they have soft tannins, which make them both wonderfully sippable with or without food. That said, I would suggest a pairing of beef or mushroom stew, a gratin of kale and potatoes, or a simple charcuterie platter. 

The Select Level wines for January also come from a short list of wines that will provide a partner for the more hearty winter dishes on your table, while also lifting our spirits with a surprising freshness or flavor of the sun. For starters, I have included one of my favorite summer releases, 2020 Chateau Mesclanes “Romane” Cote de Provence Rosé. It is a classic Provençal style rosé made from twenty year old vines at the base of a hill that overlooks this beautiful estate. The wine is made from 70% Grenache, so it is no surprise that it offers a good winter rosé, with a bit more texture and depth, as well as structure. I am fan of grenache in all it instantiations because the grape is flavorful without weight. Remember that rosé is just a very light body red with short maceration, so take it out of the fridge twenty minutes before you want to enjoy it and let it come up to temperature a little. It will show more of itself this way. Enjoy it with an easy one pot braised chicken—pick up some NY Shuk Prevered Lemon Paste and deglaze the pan with it for a delicious fresh sauce. 

The 2019 Cheveau Macon-Solutre-Pouilly is the singular white that I included this month (don’t fret “white only” members, we gave you a surprise treat in those boxes!). This is a special treat, arguably the most elegant of Chardonnays out of the stunning Cheveau portfolio. This single vineyard is in the home village of the Cheveau family, which provides an opportunity to taste the place where they live. All of their wines are wonderful, but this vibrant, precise wine has excellent minerality and length, a full body despite seeing no oak during its elevage. It gives you time pause for thought, sip it slowly and imagine the sloping hills of the Maconnais. If you have a minute, check out this video, for a glimpse into this beautiful world: https://www.madrose.com/burgundy/maconnais/

Having had a few requests for more reds than whites, this month, I decided to go ahead to comply with your requests and provide four wonderfully diverse reds for your winter table. If you were to ask me for a good versatile red for a winter meal, but you didn’t know what you would be having. Here are a few I would suggest because of two things. One, the flexibility of the wines, they allow for a wide variety of pairings. This is not to suggest that they lack unique character, but rather that they are medium bodied wines, impactful flavors of dark red and clack fruits, balanced with acidity but relatively low (and this is the second thing they share) to medium tannins, so they can pair with a lot of different winter meals. In fact, they share some of the flavor characters of the foods we are eating now—higher fat, greater concentration of strong flavors, more cooked fruits and vegetables, rather than fresh, more stewed meats, fishes, and legumes. With that in mind, here is my short list. (You can probably imagine me walking around the store doing this...) 

Ok, to begin on the lighter side of things, the 2019 Hubert Lignier Passetoutgrain represents the benchmark for wines in this category. It is Burgundy, but these grapes come from Morey-Saint-Denis in a site called Aux Poirelots, and it is a 60/40 blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir. Think finesse, fruity and intensity. This house produces wines of depth, and this is their entry point wine. They wany you to love it, so you will invest in their much pricier Pinots. The 2021 Car Car Glou Glou Akashita, from Birichino offers similar depth and in an equally throw-backable wine. (Yes, I think I just made up an adjective, but I think you get it.). 100% Carignane is old vine fruit produced with carbonic maceration, which produces a fruity and playful wine that is easy to drink, but does not lack seriousness or complexity. For a bit more weight and tannins, the 2020 DeForville Langhe Nebbiolo will not disappoint. This wine, I feel goes with so many different dishes, from salads, to roasted vegetable tagine, to a pan seared salmon filet or beef filet, you really cannot go wrong. It has wonderfully intense red and black fruits, while remaining lively on the palate because of its acidity. I would not call it high acid, but it is there and gives the wine freshness. The wines of Barbaresco notoriously are lighter than their cousins from Barolo...I might call it finesse or elegance over strength. But those adjectives don’t do the distinction justice. I love them both, but I would argue that the intensity of Barbaresco is in flavor not body. To give you a bigger, more muscular wine to chew on this January, I included Chris Brockway’s newest child to be added to my shelves, 2020 Le Clairet. It is a Bordeaux Blend from California, and it is brilliantly executed. 

All of these producers, work with as little manipulation as possible to produce wines that celebrate the natural expression of the grape. This means that they do not add enzymes, nutrients, yeast, tannins or any other popular supplements (a long list that would shock you) to the wine. This requires careful work in the vineyard, so that the grapes are properly ripe for harvesting. It is the work in the vineyard, many wine makers would argue that makes for great wine, but understanding that is not just luck, it takes attention and knowledge, trial and error, and a commitment to be good to the earth. The result is wine that is authentic, true to place, and naturally expressive. 

I want to talk more about these ideas, so I am going to begin a series of wine classes virtually. The idea is a conversation about wine with wine makers, wine mongers, chefs, writers, and all of you. Let’s learn a little while we sip and chat about wine. 

With that in mind, the Collector Level is a 3pack this month, selected with the idea of demystifying Burgundy. I know you all appreciate these wines and already know a lot about them, but I want to talk about what it is that makes them so special and often elusive? With that question in mind, I have three wines in your box (and, yes, all members are invited to buy these wines & join in the class at no cost). We begin with the 2017 Terres De Velle Bourgogne Côte D’Or Chardonnay, 2018 Philippe Et Arnaud Dubreuil Hautes -Cotes de Beaune Rouge, & 2018 Domaine Jean Guiton Bourgogne Côte D’Or Rouge. I would like to focus on two intertwined concepts when we talk about these wines—terroir and la lutte raisonnée. All three of these houses produce wines that are true to their place, and this means more than simply tasting like Burgundy. It means that they respect the growing conditions, adapt to climatic weather challenges, and make wine that is authentically expressive of the varietal grown in that particular soil. This leads me to the concept of la lutte raissonée, which is French for using common sense, or working with reasonable thinking. Having talked with these wine makers, this means that you work in harmony with the weather and climate, so you produce the best wine you can without force or manipulation. The wines are precise, elegant, and expressive, and they are also approachable, friendly, and incredibly satisfying. Join me in talking about why! 

 

 

 

All Club Members are Welcome to Join 

1st NWCG Wine Webinar of 2022: Find Your Way Through Burgundy 

  

You are invited to a Zoom meeting.  

When: Jan 27, 2022 06:30 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada)  

  

Please register in advance for this meeting: 

https://us06web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZAqduipqDksHdCOMTlLoMiRrpsMyou4yVxg  

  

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information about joining the meeting. 

Let me know if you want to order more of the wines, or if you know someone who would like to join us. The great fun is in getting many perspectives. 

This Webinar is designed  to introduce you to the wines of Burgundy. All too often customers say that Burgundy is confusing and even intimidating. We aim to take that intimidation away for you. Our focus for the Wine Webinar on Burgundy is the conecpts of terroi & la lutte raisonnée. The discussion is hosted by Maria Chiancola of Newport Wine Cellar with her guest, importer, Pascal Schildt, of Pascal Schildt Imports & Mosaic Distribution. 

We will offer maps, winery and winemaker history’s, information regarding the climate, soil, exposure, and culture, as well as talking about techniques of vinification and viticulture. We will spend some time demystifying the label, and we will explain the place over producer philosophy of the region. You will see that these iconic wines are approachable and worth getting excited about! 

WATCH FOR MORE WEBINARS!! Follow us @newportwinenchz 

 

Your Wine Lady is ready to chat. I hope you will join me!