a return to green…

While I am not foolish enough to fall for these spring like temperatures, I am writing this with the window open a crack, and the sounds of birds chirping outside my window.  That is enough for me to want the wines that pair with green!  I am not packing up the parka just yet, but my table has more vegetables, fresh salads, and the smell of the air is of the early bloomers.  Bulbs are starting to push, Hellebores are flowering, and the earth’s thaw tickles my imagination.  I am thinking about a beef barely soup with early spring spinach and shaved parmigiana, or maybe some roasted lamb with asparagus!  I had the most divine Brussels sprouts last week from our local farmer’s market, which I roasted and tossed with sautéed pancetta and toasted pine nuts.  The baby lettuces have flavor again, which in the Northeast means that winter is nearing an end.  So, what pairs with green??? Here are my picks for March Madness:

2020 Domaine Les Tulleries Pinot Noir is a delightful, light, fruity Pinot that is easy and approachable.  It comes to us from the Southwest of France and offers an excellent value red for the Spring table.  It is skippable on its own, exhibiting cherry and summer berry notes, along with a touch of mushroom and earthy qualities.  It is pretty and flavorful, soft up front fruit and a good lingering presence with generous structure and a hint of surprising spice on the finish.  It is a good wine for the early spring grilled fishes and vegetables.

2022 Pomares White is a new Portuguese wine for the shop and I cannot keep it on the shelf.  It is a blend of  a few relatively obscure grapes—Gouveio, Viosinho, and Rabigato.  It truly captures the beauty and warmth of the Duoro region with its sun covered, rolling, green hills.  It is fresh and alluring on the nose, apple, white peach, lime zest, and a hint of sea salt on the nose, with a vibrancy on the palate and lingering freshness.  It is ideal for those spring salad—bring on the greens and a vinaigrette, she can handle it!

2023 Cabriz Rosé is from the Dão region in Portugal is light and fresh with a curious savory quality that pairs so beautifully with those spring time flavors.  It is a pretty color, just a soft pink, which suggests the summer berries that follow on the palate.  It is distinctly silky and has a lovely persistent freshness.  It is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Alfrocheiro and comes to us from the Dão region of Portugal. With just 12.5% alcohol, this is an easy one for a sun filled day on the beach with some hummus and those first spring radishes!

21 Cantalapiedra Arenisca is 100% Tinto de Toro from the Paraje Los Panaderos vineyard in neighboring Benialbo (within D.O. Toro), which is among the highest elevation sites in the appellation. Grapes were hand-harvested, wild yeast fermented with 40% stem inclusion in open vats with 30 days of maceration, then raised for 11 months in used French oak barrels. The finished wine is bottled unfiltered, and just a touch of sulfur is added at bottling. It is a lovely, approachable red that will call your senses and draw you in.  It is medium bodied, with abundant red and blue fruits, soft silky tannins and a hint of spice on the finish.  I suggest that you try this one with sautéed escarole loaded up with garlic, add a poached egg on top, char a slice of bread, and chunk up some parmigiana reggiano.

21 I Fabbri Chianti Classico is a wonderful Sangiovese from the high vineyards of Lamole, in Casole. These sandy soils sit high, between 450 and 650 meters above sea level, giving the vines a strong diurnal shift in temperatures. This allows the wines color to be lighter, to add ‘crunchy’ aromas of fresh cherry and raspberry, and to give the medium bodied wine supple, refined tannins with great balance and freshness.

Estate History: I Fabbri is the work of Susanna Grassi, who reinvigorated the family farm in the 1990’s. Since the 1600’s the Grassi family has owned and farmed in Casole. In the 1920’s Susanna’s great-grandfather Olinto bottled and sold wine. The estate had fallen into disrepair in the 1960’s, before she took over and restored it and the reputation of this beautiful wine.  I have read that this wine is “intellectually stimulating,” which sounds great but what does it mean?  Well, I sipped and understood.  The aromatics on this wine will make you swoon.  The wine exudes the red fruits that you will enjoy on the palate, with notes of rose petal and white pepper with a stoney minerality.  It tells a story and makes me want to be part of the narrative.  Medium bodied but one to chew on. Keep it simple please with this one, a bowl of pasta, a rare steak and salad, or grill some spring artichokes and drizzle with olive oil.

22 Vina Zorzal Blanco is 100% Garnacha Blanca from multiple plots within Corella. Hand harvested, and destemmed, with a few hours of skin contact. Fermented using indigenous yeasts, the wine rests on the lees in 1200L flex tanks. It ages in tank and 500-liter barrels for about 7 months.  The wines are made in a remodeled part of the family’s old winery, and the work in the cellar follows the work on the land, which they summarize here: “We practice low intervention, environmentally-friendly viticulture; we do not till the vineyards, and all processes are carried out manually; we use selected native plants for ground cover fertilizing with compost to improve the vine’s resistance to diseases. This philosophy is carried through to the winery, where our wines ferment spontaneously. We avoid racking, and don’t filter nor clarify. No additives are used, only a sufficient, moderate amount of sulphur.” This wine would be beautiful with a simple risotto, great with sushi, and wonderful with a beef barely soup.

22 Gour de Chaule CdR This si a perrneial fav around here and not a surprise.  Here are the Rosenthal notes on this one: Several important vineyard sites form this Gigondas, including Gour de Chaulé, Les Blaches, and Les Bousquets. The Grenache vines average well over a half century in age, with low yields of 30-32 hl/ha. The grapes are never destemmed and there is a 3 week cuvaison with a small amount of press juice added back to the cuvée. The wine is racked into large oak “foudres” after malo where it stays for approximately 18 months, being bottled—unfined and unfiltered—three years after harvest. The resulting wine is sturdy, braced with sweet, dusty tannins, and is intensely aromatic with notes of crushed white pepper, oriental spices and game.”  Stephanie’s wines rock my world again and again.  I think, yes, this is a good one, then I open it, pour, inhale and remember, damn, she is good at what she does!”

22 Railsback Vermentino is inspired by the winemakers love of Corsica.  I must say, if you haven’t been, no time like the present!  It is stunning, sun filled, rugged and warmed by the sun.  This wine bespeaks the landscape.  They use cement egg and neutral wood and a long elevate of 7-8 months before bottling to achieve the texture.  It has aromas of citrus, white flowers, grapefruit pith and almond skins.  It is versatile, so just enjoy it with seafood or pasta, or just on its own.

23 Pomalo Rose has been in the club before and it deserves revisiting.  t is 100 % Frankovka from Slovenia and is a direct to press rosé made with intention.  It has wonderful aromatics!  The grapes are carefully, dand-picked, destemmed and pressed with minimal skin contact. Natural cold settling for 48hrs. The clarity comes from racking off the lees. The wine has an alluring nose,  bursting with floral aromas and red berry fruits, particularly strawberries and raspberries. The palate is fresh, vibrant, bright, and effortless.  It is ideal for all those caring vegetables that I mentioned, so maybe consider a ramp pesto with walnuts!

21 Post Scriptum is a brand new wine for me, and I fell into an immediate relationship with her.  This is an example of an elegant, full bodied red with balance and nuance.  It well deserves the Wine & Spirits score of 94 points, and this review "Post Scriptum is a luscious beauty in 2021. The cool, zesty concentration of fruit and tannins builds this wine’s depth of flavor: Meaty, savory, then bright, with the sunniness of a ripe Douro fig. There’s sweetness to the mineral frame, melding the tannins into the fruit so the sensation is mouthwatering. A generous young Douro, it keeps giving for more than a minute after each taste.”  I am planning to roast a portion with some stone fruit.

20 Celler de Roure Vermell comes from a project of two winemakers— Pablo Calatayud and Paco Senis.  This is a blend of Garnacha Tintorera and Mando, grown at 600 meters above the sea in clay and sand loan soil in Valencia.  All hand harvested, partial destem and partial whole cluster native yeast fermentation and a two week maceration before gentle pressing. The cool parts the subterranean amphorae aging that the wine undergoes before bottling.  It is very fresh and light, fruity and earthy with an alluring and deceiving dark color.  This is a wonderful wine for a cheese platter, but would also enjoy a spring pea risotto with some roast lamb.

22 Agnanum Falanghina is an IGT from Campania. This is grown in Volcanic soil and I am learning more about what this means for the vines.  It is a highly mineral rich soil which often results in a stoney quality, and some argue a light smoke. Souther Italy has as been formed by volcanoes, like Vesuvius on the Bay of Naples in Campania.  This wine is a wonderful example of the powerful aromatics and the mineral rich wines of volcanic regions.  The wine is focused, crisp and rich in exotic fruits.  It is the zippiness that makes it so ideally suited for salads, but particularly chicories, try a buttermilk vinaigrette to bring a little fat to it too!

Collector’s Wines

This month we are featuring a wonderful spam producer form Eola-Amity Hills in Willamette Valley.  I was struck by the quality of the wines, the finesse, and the age-ability.

Here are the winery’s notes.

23 Cristom Chardonnay.  Cristom’s flagship Chardonnay is a blend of benchmark vineyard sites in the Eola-Amity Hills, including the Cristom Estate. The combination of volcanic soils, elevations, aspects, clones, and the cool marine influence yield a concentrated and layered Chardonnay with tension and generosity.

Winemaking: Hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed; the juice settles overnight and is moved to barrels. It undergoes native yeast fermentation and full malolactic fermentation. It's aged for eleven months on its lees in 21% new French oak barrels, followed by five months in stainless steel tanks. 13.0% ABV 

Tasting Notes: Bright and expressive, this Chardonnay captures the essence of its origins with aromas of Meyer lemon, brioche toast, ocean spray, and sweet citrus. A touch of saline enhances vibrant flavors of lemon zest, Lemonhead candy, and green accents of fern leaf and nettle, all unfolding on a textured mid-palate. A phenolic, salivating finish lingers with hints of graham cracker crust for added depth.Suggested Pairing: Soba Noodles with Grilled Shrimp & Cilantro

22 Cristom Pinot Noir The first Pinot Noir of the vintage to be crafted, after multiple tastings of every individual barrel, "Mt. Jeff" defines the best of the Eola-Amity Hills. The 2022 Mt. Jeff is comprised of 73% Cristom Estate fruit from our five world-class vineyards – Paul Gerrie, Eileen, Jessie, Louise, and Marjorie Vineyards – one of the highest percentages of estate fruit in Cristom’s 28 vintages of crafting this iconic wine! This wine is a Cristom classic. It is 100% Pinot Noir and exclusively from the Eola-Amity Hills. It embodies Cristom's hallmark style—marrying whole-cluster and native yeast fermentations—and is unfined and unfiltered.Tasting Notes: Vibrant fresh red fruit characters and 52% whole cluster fermentation parlay layered spice and fine tannin, the 2022 “Mt. Jeff” offers tremendous complexity of flavor and is showing exceptionally well in its youth.Aging Suggestions: Drinking well now and can age until 2031 or longer.

This is a pinot that really rocked my world.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.  While it would be lovely on its own, it will truly shine paired with a roasted duck breast and a little augratin fennel.

Enjoy your spring!

Cheers, Maria

There is much conversation about inflation in all industries, wine is not an exception.  That said, I want to enjoy wine everyday, so I continue to strive for exceptional value wines that will elevate my meal and bring me into communion with my friends. Hand crafted, minimal intervention, sustainable farming, and  Here a few for our February menus that impressed me for a modest price point!

If you are like me, regardless of the temperature, I want something cold, at least to start.  I do reach for some more full bodied whites and rosés this time of year, for certain. The 2023 Ehmoser Gruner Veltliner Wagram Terrassen is an elegant example of this grape.  I love it for its balance of fruit and minerality.  The wine exhibits a careful care from start to finish.  Hand harvested fruit from a terraced vineyard, minimal intervention, pressed and fermented on the lees in stainless tanks to preserve the delicate aromatics and freshness.  The wine has a touch of spice that invokes baked pears and a peppery note that compels a second sip.  Enjoy this with something spicy like Thai green curry.  It has an unusual capacity for pairing with challenging vegetables like asparagus and artichokes, so a nice risotto would work well.

For something a bit more full bodied, the 2021 Domain des Tourelles Blanc, from Bekka Valley, Lebanon is a blend of Viognier, Chardonnay, Muscat d’Alexandria, and Obeidi (an indigenous grape).  It is a dry, weighty white wine that bespeaks the clay and gravely soils in which the vines flourish.  Wine production in Lebanon predates the Greek and Roman wine production, and the terroir of Bekka Valley is some of the most highly regarded for its soil base and aspect.  The winemaker at Tourelles studied his craft in France, so brings a decidedly French approach to the local varietals.  All hand harvested, native yeast natural fermentations, and stainless steel, makes for a complex and elegant wine for this modest price.  It is fresh and abundantly aromatic with notes of peach, lime, bruised apples, tropical fruits, jasmine flowers and wet stone.  It is a wonderful accompaniment to a cheese and charcuterie platter, whether as a starter or a meal in itself.

If you are following the natty train, you will love the 2022 Bio Balthazar Minervois Blanc.  A blend of Marsan, Vermentino, and Grenache Blanc from the Southwest of France.  This is a ripe white with apple, ripe pear, peach and loads of salinity and a bright finish. I must be dreaming of beach time, as I find myself drawn to the wines that invoke sea spray.  The wine is naturally fermented, but also unfiltered and unfined, so a bit more complex, and still clean and delicious.  It is made with care and precision.  I enjoyed this one with aromatic rice pilaf with winter squash and some roasted pork tenderloin.

If you are riding the fence, as I so often do, just grab the rosé!  The 2023 Pomelo Rosé has been in the club before, but was so well loved, that we brought it back again!  This is a Croatian wine made with Frankovla (aka Blaufrankish), direct press rosé hand crafted after a 48 hour cold soak.  The color is peachy orange with a pink hue and a touch of blue that invokes a sunset over the ocean.  Maybe the salinity on the finish also makes me long to sit on the beach.  The wine has a wonderful mix of floral, berry, and citrus notes with a light hint of pastry crust.  I want a light pasta with mushrooms and a touch of cream with this one.

For value reds this month, I have included one of my own wines.  The 2023 Tipsy Rose Cinsault is a reminder of the berries of summer with crunchy red currant and black tea  notes that will warm you up.  I loved this vintage for the depth of flavor on a grape that is typically used for blending. This wine was harvested in early September from JDM Organics Fram where Sergio tends to his vines with great care and biodynamic farming techniques.  It supports my theory that great fruit is the foundation of any good wine! I have been enjoying it chilled but you can make that choice.  It pairs great with winter stews, roasted fish or lighter meats, or enjoy it with a grilled cheese sandwich—that’s Steven’s favorite, I think he’s right!

For a delicious medium bodied red, try the 2020 Valerie Forgues Tourraine Gamay.  It will surprise you with its richness and body.  Gamay is another one of those very versatile grapes that can be delicate and light or more fruit forward and richer in style.  It tends to be lower in tannins, but this is not always what gives wine body, though it does provide structure.  I like Gamay for its flavor, brightness and fruity expression.  I find it easy to drink on its own and incredible food flexible.  This one leans toward a earthier style, perhaps that is indicative of the Loire Valley, compared with those from the Beaujolais.  Valerie Forgue is registered organic, does not filter or fine her wines, and only the slightest bit of sulfur is added at bottling.  There are endless options with this wine, but I am thinking about a ricotta and egg filled agnolotti with a sage butter, but have some fun with this one and tell me what worked for you.

The 2020 Olivier Gessler Gascone Rouge will offer you a bit more bite, if that is what you seek.  It was voted  great value by Wine Enthusiast, and while we must form our own impression and opinion about any wine, I must agree with this review.  The wine far exceeds the price point.  It is elegant, complex,  and bold of expression while maintaining freshness and palatability.  It has brambly fruit with earth and spice.  It would be wonderful with a beef bourguignons, and equally wonderful with the mushroom version.

The Select Wines for February offer a range of styles, to give you some options.  If you want something refreshing, you could start with a nice rosé, and this month, I have included the 2023 Tipsy Rose, Rosé of Pinot Noir.  I selected this wine because it is a year round rosé, offering depth of flavor, beyond the throw back and thirst quenchers that are yummy but simple.  The wine has fruit, but also tannins and great acidity, but interesting aromatics and a surprising depth of flavor.  I achieved this by doing two picks, one in August for acidity and one in October for flavor and fruit.  Fermented separately, then blended before bottling.  The wine has cherry and strawberry notes but also fennel and star anise, with a light blood orange citrus and a soft salinity on the finish.  I like this one on its own, but it shows even better with food.  At this time of year, I like it with some pan roasted fish—like salmon or monkfish.

The 2021 Luneau-Papin Muscadet La Grange Vielle Vignes is 100% Melon de Bourgogne, and it is a stunning Muscadet that will surprise you with its body and full mouth feel.  The wine is fermented on the lees  for seven months before bottling, which is a long time when it comes to what is typically a fairly light bodied white wine.  That length of aging gives the wine texture and richness. Made by the fourth generation winemaker in a family that has been farming this vineyard and making these wines for over a century.  It is no surprise that it is elegant  and polished.  The wine has all the fruit and tart flavors of Muscadet, but also this wonderful smooth, rich texture that means it works with our wintery meals.  I would suggest mussels in a rich broth with lemons, garlic, and some chorizo.

For a full bodied white, I have included the 2023 King’s Ridge Chardonnay from Willamette Valley.  This Chardonnay absolutely sings.  It is fruity, of course, but it has this wonderful tension that balances the richness of the wine and the intensity of the fruit.  The complexity comes from the blend of fruit from four vineyards, including some of their longest-term growing partners. Working close with your growers is critical to success when sourcing fruit. These growers include Palestine Hill in the Southern Willamette Valley, Kraemer Farms and Bielenberg on the east side of the valley, and Witness Tree Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills. The portion from Witness Tree was barrel-fermented, while the rest underwent cool, slow fermentations in stainless steel to preserve aromas.  I am fascinated by the blending!  The final blend preserves acidity and freshness, while the limited inclusion of oak brings a touch of richness, striking the balance that has become a hallmark of Willamette Valley Chardonnay. The blend is all one varietal—100% Chardonnay, but from these four distinct terroirs and treated differently.  This is cool.  I hope you like it as much as I do!  This wine will really shines with a richer dish, try it with some lobster Mac n cheese!

2021 Federico Russo “Teh” Piedmont Rosso is a blend of Barbera, Grignolino, Freisa and Bonarda that is light to medium in body, but not shy on flavor.   The FUSO line up is a collaborative project between the natural wine importer Portofino and the organic growers of the region.  It is a cool way to give an exporting option to some very small producers.  This particular bottling is made in collaboration with the Russo family at Crotin 1897, a small family run winery committed to organic principles.  The wine is a rustic everyday wine with a punchy fruity style.  At just 12% abv it is a nice option for a lighter wine.  Don’t be fooled by the light body, the wine pairs exceptionally well with winter fare from meaty dishes to pastas to roasted veggies.

2020 Flo Busch “Point du Jour” Herault Rouge comes from the Southwest of France in the Lagueduc region, where we are finding more and more options for wines of character and exceptional value.  This blend is perfect to wrap up in on  a cool winter evening and enjoy the company of a loved one.  One third each Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache, grown in blue and yellow limestone and quartz soils. Macerated for two weeks with regular pump overs and push downs. Spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel. Unfined and unfiltered. Deep crimson in the glass. It smells subtly of dark cherries and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate it is aromatically much more impressive and plays the full range of aromas from fennel to dried rosemary and thyme as well as wet stone and lime zest.

2022 Bosquets Cotes du Rhone will ask you to find a robust meal to pair with its wild rusticity.  It is bold and delicious.  The fruit on the front palate has cooked cherry, blackberry and plum with tomato paste and earthy high notes of spice and herbs.  If you are thinking that this sounds like a meal in itself, you are right.  I could chew on this one and happily!  I may reserve this one for my Valentine’s meal of roasted duck breast, salted fingerling potatoes roasted and smashed, sautéed winter greens with cracked pepper…and of course, a flourless chocolate cake for dessert.  All of which this wine can handle deftly.

Collector Wines: While it is not necessary to lay these wines down, as they are both drinking quite nicely in their youth.  These are wines that have the potential to age well, meaning that they will continue to hold together, maintain freshness and vibrant flavors as they age.  This question of aging is an interesting one, and as of late, generating a lot of conversation.  Historically speaking, aging was the “cool” thing to do, but more and more wine drinkers are gravitating toward lighter, fresher flavors and you get those in younger wines.  That said, if you have had the patience to wait for a bottle of Napa Cab for twenty years, or reserve a Chateauneuf  for the same, or even longer, then you understand the reward.  It is not to say that I think one experience is better than another, but I would argue that these wines are remarkable when they have had time in the bottle to mature.  My suggestion is to try them now, if you already enjoy them, then buy a few and lay them down.  Try one in 3 years, and see what you think.

2021 Chante Cigale Chateauneuf du Pape is grown in a few specific Lieu-dit (these are walled blocks of vineyard) in Tresquoy, Carriers and Dots Dauphins.  One is known for the smoothed rocks know in the region as galets roulés, another for limestone content, and the other for its sandy composite.  Naturally the wines reflect that soil distinction—one brings power and the other elegance, which brings complexity to the style, flavor and quality of the wine. All the vines are 60+ years old, so their yields will be smaller, but more complex.  All the work is done by hand, both in the field and in the winery.  The maceration lasts up to a month before press and into a combination of stainless steel and young barrels.  The result is a wine that  reflects the region, a complex mixture of elegance and power, rusticity and nobility, warmth, spice, and full of fruit.  It is a fleshy wine that is easy to imagine chewing on.  Pairing this one is not hard, just give it some fat, and give it some time to breath or decant it.  Match it with gratins of vegetable and cheese, ricotta gnocchi in brown butter for a great vegetarian option, or red meats and game.

Your food pairings for the 2022 Tipsy Rose Coombsville Cabernet Sauvignon are not dissimilar from those I suggested for the CdP above, but I would shift from the gratin to something a litter lighter on its feet.  This is a new venture for me.  I have always made Rhone varietals, but when in Napa, one starts to wonder about working with Cabernet Sauvignon.  I have a few that I adore, but honestly, many that are simply to heavy handed for my wine preferences.  This is about personal choice, but also, I believe that wine should accompany food, so it can’t obscure the subtle flavors of the dish.  It was my intention to make a Cab that would accompany a meal in harmony with its flavors.  Coombsville grows great Cabernet Sauvignon because of its location.  The proximity to the Bay means that it is cooler than much of Napa Valley, so the grapes have a longer hang time before becoming ripe, or over ripe.  A longer hang time  along with slower ripening means fresher fruit flavors and soft floral notes, more acidity and lower potential alcohol.  All in all, a more elegant wine.  I hope that I have achieved that.  Please give me feed back, I am always learning and want to know what you enjoyed this with.  I had it recently with a filet pan seared, very rare on a bed of greens with boiled baby bliss potatoes and a blue cheese butter melted on the steak…and it pleased me and my guests very much!

As always, I try to provide a variety of experiences with the selections each month.  I welcome your feedback and am happy to customize your selections.  If you love it, please tell two friends!  We need to grow!

Cheers, Maria