Responsible Indulgence April 2025
April is the cruelest month, breeding / Lilacs out of the dead land, mixing / Memory and desire, stirring / Dull roots with spring rain.
Yes, Eliot often makes it into my April newsletters with this opening line of The Wasteland in which he captures the paradox of the gift of fertility and cruelty of the suffering that accompanies it. This encapsulates the Spring Gastronomic Paradox as well. Surely, you may think, this is a stretch, but let me explain. April skies are a unique color of blue that is filled with the hope of warmth, and then we step outside and the air is cold and damp. We don our spring attire only to suffer the shivers all day long, asking ourselves why we packed the parka away. It is true from coast to coast. I sit here writing about wine in Napa, and I am chilled to the bone. I think that spring greens would be refreshing and so healthy, but I just want a burger to warm me through!
The analogous culinary conundrum however is quite positive. We are given the bright early green vegetables, but we are not ready to pack away our rich savory sauces. Instead, drizzle that cheese sauce over your asparagus and serve it with a braised lamb shank. If that isn’t the culinary manifestation of Spring, than I don’t know what is. Naturally, one might think red. Surely a Syrah is in order, and that would be an excellent choice. But, what if a Riesling were an option? I would find it hard to choose which, and at the risk of sounding reckless, I may just have a glass of each. That said, Grenache…Pinot Noir…Pinotage…Oh my! Lucky for you, they are all at your fingertips, so grab your wine club & enjoy responsible indulgence.
As always, thank you for supporting small producers and responsible viniculture! Cheers, Maria
Here are your wine notes to help you pick just the right bottle for your meal. These have been selected for there tensions and a style that will easily pair with the “shoulder-season” menus!
For some delicious Value wines, we have some wines that overdeliver this month. That is how I describe wines that will surprise you with the quality and style for the cost. All of these fall between $12 and $20’ish on the shelf, and they all will satisfy your hankering for a delicious glass of wine any day of the week.
23 Pedro Martinez Alesanco Blanco is from the Southern Alta village of Badarán, where Martinez Alesanco is producing estate grown and bottled wines of exceptional value. You will note a tension in this wine that is likely the result of the colder climate. The winery sits very close to the Sierra de la Demanda mountain range with snow covered peaks and dramatic elevations. The wine is made from Viura, White Tempranillo, Malvasia and Sauvignon Blanc, and it reflects the aromatics of these varietals grown in iron rich soils.. It is alluring, white fruits, citrus, and floral notes. It is bone dry, fresh and zippy. Enjoy this with any of those challenging vegetable dishes—asparagus, Brussels, spring lettuces, fish and lighter meats.
For our rosé, I wanted warmth, so I chose the 22 Wightman & Sons Pinotage Rosé because it emanates the sunshine of its region in South Africa. The vineyard is planted as bush vines, which produces natural shade for the grapes that grow in some extreme heats and particularly dry conditions. The pinotage was planted in 1997, farmed organically on decomposed granite soil, which provides high nutrient and excellent drainage. This makes the vines work hard, and the result is an intensity of flavor. The wine is whole bunch pressed in a basket press and then fermented and aged in stainless steel for seven months before bottling. Aromas of tart cherry, fresh ripe strawberry and citrus with a soft dusty-herbals notes. It is dry, flavorful and complex with that characteristic Pilotage smokey quality. I suggest some charcuterie with this one, it wants a little fat & salt!
If you are seeking a wine that is easy to throw back but also interesting enough to make you stop and think about slowing down, try the 2021 Le SALSE, a super mineral driven white from Italy. On first appearance you think this wine is an easy drinker, but then the complexity unfolds. The aromatics are an intoxicating mix of white flowers, honeysuckle, white peach and mint, with some lemon grass and wet stone brine. I am a fan of salinity, and this wine delivers it. 100% Verdicchio, it is a crisp, medium bodied white with a luscious mouth feel. Try this with some smoked salmon and scallion cream cheese, quiche Lorraine, or some slow cooked pork.
For reds, it is clear that I am seeking the tension between freshness and warmth. Typically, I select a variety, but this month the three Value Reds are fairly consistent in style, offering brightness with a warmth that comes from climate and a spice inherent in the grape. It is as if you can taste the sunshine. The 2020 Winery of Good Hope Syrah is not new to this list, but the 2020 vintage is new to our club. This vintage is particularly refreshing with wonderful intensity. It is loaded with brambly fruit, balanced with herbal notes of rosemary and lavender with cracked black pepper Their philosophical approach is to allow for native yeast fermentation and to keep the fermentation as cool as possible, which means the resulting wine shows restraint and balance. This Syrah has beautiful plummy flavors that make it an excellent pairing with lamb, game, and other red meats.
For a slightly chewier red, with dense fruits and subtle violet notes, try the 2021 Chapillon Harmonie from Calatayud, Aragon in Spain. This is 90% Petit Verdot and 10% Tannat. It has wonderful intense ripe brambly fruit with a touch of leather and spice. I love the hint of smoke on this wine, which makes it an excellent pair for grilling. I enjoyed it with care asada tacos and some Rancho Gorda beans.
At the Select Level, we revisit the 2023 MT Christophe Avi Agenais Rosé* which comes from the IGP Agenais. The appellation was established in 2011 to reflect the typical of the wines form this area in the southwest of France. The focus is on Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon, both of which grow vigorously there. The rosé is a complex little number with much to enjoy and contemplate. Its floral notes are alluring, but he fish fruits and freshness on the nose and palate are what makes this wine so impactful for me. Wild strawberries, cherries, nectarines, and ripe pear with a salty minerality.
The 2020 Pedra Volta Garnacha Blanco has an alluring nose with lemon blossom, apricot, pear, and melon. The wine comes to us from Aragon in the region of Matarraña. It is 100% Granache Blanc but with a unique expression for me. It is lighter than most GB with a real brightness that is fresh and inviting. It would pair beautifully with egg dishes and salads
For something a little different, the 2014 Three Foxes Gnarly White is a skin contact white from the Coastal Region of South Africa. If you are seeking a more savory white, this is your bottle. It is a blend of Claudette Blanche and Semillon and spent some time on the skins, which gives it tannins and phenolics that make for a very complex and interesting wine. It is also unfiltered and unfined, preserving all the flavor and aromatics. Think ripe apricot, peach, citrus, thyme, dried fruits, baking spices, honey and earthy salinity. This wine would pair well smoked fish, cured meats and cheese, and it can handle those challenging vegetables like asparagus and artichokes.
Typically, I select three reds for the mix, but this month is calling for whites, so I added the 2017 Precedent Dry Riesling from Nathan Kandler. It is an ideal pairing for Easter menus, but is also an inspiring Dry Riesling. I love this wine! He sources the grapes form a Wirz Vineyard, they vines are 60 years old + and planted in a bed of decomposed granite on a mountain top 1000 feet above sea level. It is a unique site that has an Alpine climate, perfect for producing delicious Riesling. The yields are low, which means that the flavors are intense. The wine sings with a stunning tension of fruit and a racey acidity. It has notes of pear, peach, and stone fruits, exotic fruits and melon, key lime and lemon grass. It would pair well with an Easter ham, egg dishes, and paella.
For reds, you have the option of a lighter, elegant Gamay from Beaujolais. The 2020 Cote de Berne Brouilly is indicative of the region. I find Brouilly the most delicate of the Beaujolais regions and the Cote de Berne illustrates this character. Rémi Sandrin is the 5th generation of wine growers of the family. He runs the 17-hectare family-estate. The vineyards are spread over several crus in Beaujolais, such as Brouilly, Juliénas, Moulin à Vent or Morgon. Some vines are old (up to 80 years old) and most of the estate is harvested manually. The vat room is also ancient with some concrete vats dating back to 1900. Tradition is in the spotlight at this family domain and they pass it through their wines. Ruby red in color with a bright brilliance. It has .red berries on the nose summer strawberries and mushroom. The palate is smooth and round with soft tannins. It would pair well with braised lighter meats, vegetable couscous, roasted eggplant, and braised white beans and escarole.
For a more full bodied wine, the 2020 Cerron El Tiempo Que Nos Une from Jumilla, Spain delivers a ripe, earthy rich Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre ) that will make you smile as if the summer sun was pouring over you. It is intense purple in color and very aromatic with ripe red fruits, balsamic nuance and a delicious marked salinity very characteristic of this area. It’s savory character makes it a wonderful choice for grilling. Get some spring onions and char them, serve them over a grilled steak or mushroom cap and finish it by letting some blue cheese butter melt over the top!
For the Collector Level, I decided to take a journey into the 2021 Burgundy Vintage. It has been reported to be a challenging one with more rainfall than desired. This can make for heavy soils, lighter fruit and grainier tannins. In the end, good winemakers can make great wines even in the most difficult of vintages. This is true of the 21’s out of Burgundy. The vintage still had good temperatures, so while the wines don’t have quite the ripeness, they are showing good grippy tannins, elegant fruit and beautiful tension. Red Burgundy loves regional pairings like roasted duck, lamb, game, mushroom based dishes and gratins make an excellent vegetarian option.
The 2021 Davanture Mercurey Rouge From clay soils and southeastern facing slopes comes this charming and nuanced Pinot Noir from old vines farmed by the Faiveley team. This over-delivers on the high-value promise of Mercurey, displaying classic Burgundian charm. According to the estate: "Our 'vieilles vignes' (old vines) are over thirty years old and produce an exceptionally aromatic wine that offers a true reflection of its Mercurey terroirs. The palate reveals a smooth, fruity attack and evolves towards notes of ripe red berries and a touch of vanilla. An intensely aromatic wine with a delicate structure and silky smooth tannins that will win over wine experts and amateurs alike.”
I find the wine very appealing and approachable. It exhibits cherry notes, fresh and dried, with an alluring smooth fruity delivery for a vintage not know for fruit. The tannins are supple and the finish has a lovely balance of acidity, flavor, and minerality.
2021 Molin Fixin. Founded in 1987 by Armelle and Jean-Michel Molin, this family-estate of 7 hectares produces regional, villages, 1er crus and grands crus. The tradition remains very present while combining now days methods. In 2004, after the birth of their son Alexandre in the farm, the organic conversion started and the certification was obtained in 2010.The vines are partially grassed to allow the fauna and flora to develop and thus participate in the regulation of diseases and "useful" insects. Weed killers and chemicals are replaced by natural products, plowing and mowing.Fixin is a small village on the Côte de Nuit located between Gevrey Chambretin and Marsannay.It represents about 101 hectares with 6% of white wine and 94% of red wine vines. Fixin and Fixin 1er cru are produced there. The grape varieties, as in all the Côte de Nuit area, are Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Its vineyards, located on a clay-limestone soil with marl, are mostly exposed to the east, an exposure that makes the quality of the great Burgundies. Red ruby colored wine on an aromatic palette of red and black fruits. Often tannic and a little hard
in their youth, with age the Fixin acquire a heightened and rounded attack and solid structure. Their fullness is remarkable and their texture delicate.
