Responsible Indulgence--November 2023
We have Fallen Back
Regardless of the familiar pattern, we all seem surprised that temperatures are dropping and the days are getting shorter. The wonderful thing about this pattern is that it forces us to change, switch out the closets, wrap up in a favorite sweater, clean off the grill and get out that roasting pan. I love it. The sound of dried leaves scrapping along the sidewalk as I shuffle through them in the warmth of the autumn sunshine makes me hungry for new flavors, or perhaps a return to familiar recipes. I seek warmth inside the home, a contrast to the outward bound energy of summer, and it feels great. I have been baking taralli and biscotti, roasting vegetables, taking time in the kitchen to make three inch deep quiches that cooks for over an hour (yes, the recipe is below!), bake breads, make lasagna and Sunday gravy. All of this call for more robust flavors in the wines, so here are my November picks. I hope you are ready for some intensity and some warmth. Grab a blanket and enjoy one of these on the beach; it is still beautiful out!
November Wine Club Notes—better late than never!
20 Clos des Fous PMG is a fun, aromatic, and alluring Pinot Noir that comes to use from Itata, Chile, and it surprising in its complexity and quality for its modest price point. The eye catching ruby red is as bright as the berry on the nose and the floral aromatics that welcome you. The sun has kissed this Pinot, for sure, and it has the resulting warmth, but all within balance. The medium bodied wine has chalky tannins and moderate acids to make this a good food pairing wine. It is very flexible, but I enjoyed it with my first winter pot pie, loaded with potatoes, leeks, carrots and chicken—the wine particularly liked the puff pastry, so buttery and salty.
21 Buxy Aligote Silex is a negotiant wine, which is unusual in my shop, but this group of 98 pioneering wine makers are finding their way in an increasingly difficult region for small production wine makers. They are working together to tackle some of the insurmountable challenges for small, independent wine makers during the growth, production and sales of their wines. The process gets cost prohibitive, and they have found away to combine efforts, and they make a delicious wine! It is vibrant, clean and laser sharp with acidity that will excite your taste buds! The “Silex” indication refers to the soil type and the extended lees contact, both contribute to the flinty character of the wine and its round, softer texture. Enjoy this one with egg dishes, roasted fish, or a salad.
La Vie en Rose is a sparking rosé that comes to us from the Loire region in France. It is hand crafted by Laurent Charrier and his family at a family winery called Pas Saint Martin. The wine is 100% Grolleau Noir which is a centuries old grape native to the Loire and that is generally used for rosé. The process is Method Ancestrale, which is “Pet Nat” to you hip kids out there. It is the oldest method of sparkling wine production, and it is quite simple. The wine maker captures the CO2 that is released during the process of fermentation. No additions, just bubbles. This wine has a soft fruitiness and just a kiss of sweetness that is intentional and wonderfully refreshing. Enjoy it with a cheeseboard and some friends!
20 Oddero Convento is a blend of a few parcels of Nebbiolo at the Oddero estate which is in now lead by Franceso Versio, who learned his craft from Dante Scaglione. This wine is a new one for the estate, made with the intention of easy drinking approachable “Barolo.” He accomplishes this by fermenting in stainless to keep the wine bright and fresh. It sees only a little time in neutral oak. I imagine it gets gentle punch downs to avoid the extraction of grippy flavors and tannins, so that we get the fruity, soft side of Nebbiolo. I love this wine and it is a super value. Enjoy it with vegetable stews or braised meats. I am going to make a pot of Italian Wedding soup this weekend and open this up for that! It likes to be open 20 minutes prior to drinking, for a bit of air.
21 Rogue Vine Grand Cru Itata is a new one for us at NWC, and it has been very well received. It is a light bodied red of Cinsault with just a pinch of Pais, which is a grape that is native to Itata region of Chile. The wine has a pop to it that is irresistible. I love the cranberry note on it, which is why it was perfect for the November box. Try it with your Turkey later this month!
20 Prinz Salm, Two Princes Riesling comes from an estate that has been in the same family for 32 generations. It was founded in 1200, and is now the oldest family run winery in Germany. On top of that, they make delicious wines at very reasonable price points. This wine has loads of fruit flavor—green apple, peach, nectarine, blood orange, and floral notes, too, all with this lovely lime zest finish and minerality that leaves your palate refreshed and ready for your next bite. It is ideally suited for the traditional Thanksgiving meal, but also great for spicy Thai or some wasabi laden sushi!
21 Gustavo Riffo, Pipeno is made from 100% Pais, from Itata, Chile. It has loads of character. You first get this berry note that is on the front of the palate, but by the mid palate the flavors develop, adding a citrus component with some cherry notes, followed by a meaty, smokey finish. The grapes are farmed organically and all winery work is done naturally, the wine is not filtered or fined. This is as natural as they come, and the style is rustic, but it is delicious and precise, as well. For this one, I am going to pan sear some pork chops, Bourdain-style, and finish them in the oven with a pile of roasted root vegetables.
21 Thevenet Macon Pierreclos is 100% Chardonnay from the northern most region of the Macon in Burgundy, where some of the very best Chardonnay is grown. This is their work horse wine, sourced from four separate parcels within Pierreclos. The vines are no younger than forty five years old, producing complex grapes of character and quality. The wine is aged on the lees for texture, but has no oaking in the process. It has texture and body, but is still fresh and crisp. It is a pure Chardonnay, and will be ideal for some stuffed roasted butternut squash, throw some roasted pepitas on the top and pomegranate seeds.
21 Elderton E Series Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon blend is for those seeking a bold red that is approachable, smooth, and full flavored. This Barossa Valley winery has owned and run by the Ashmead family since the 19th century, but most recently the new generation has been producing wines of character and quality. It is classic Australian red, produced with care and intention. The wine is undoubtedly bold, but throw a steak on the gill and prepare to swoon!
22 Ambra Barco Reale di Carmignano is full of fruity aromatics and floral notes that translate onto the palate, along with a touch of spice and pepper, making this youthful red very compelling. There is a blackberry intensity on the midpalate that is so satisfying, and the suggestion of licorice on the finish makes me smile. This Sangiovese blend is rich and expansive on the palate. I would suggest you hunker in and make some Sunday gravy with this one!
21 Broc Trousseau has a lovely soft cranberry and cherry aromatics with wet stone and oyster shells on the finish. There is a little white flower on the nose, and fresh plum flavor that hits on the midpalate that is surprising and delightful. This one is for those seeking a light bodied red with a chill on it. Chris Brocway continues his wine journey, making wines naturally, with organic fruit and light touch in the winery. He is committed to lighter style wines with lower alcohol levels from a regio that has been associated with big and bold for far too long. I commend his efforts to reshape the way we know California wines. This wine is ideal for the flavors of fall, but also it can handle some of hard to pair vegetables, so roast some brussels sprouts or sauté winter greens and roast a chicken or a pork loin with this one.
Poderi Sanguineto I & II is Dora Forsoni’s family estate in Montepulciano, Tuscany, where she learned from her father to tend vines and make wine. In 1997 she chose to establish her own label from the grapes grown on the 50 hectare parcel. Dora walks and works the vines everyday, putting her hands in the soil and on her wines with care and attention that allows her to continue to farm organically, without any chemicals. She believes in a hand crafted, natural approach from the vineyard to the bottle, so all vineyard work and harvesting is done by hand.
This attention maintains a quality that cannot be accomplished by mechanized work. It is undoubtedly much more laborious and more costly, but the quality is there and it is worth it.
All the grapes are destemmed, but remain whole berry, to encourage a slow fermentation. The grapes are pressed but only gently, so yields are lower but avoid the harsh grippy flavors that press juice can often have. Her Rosso and Vino Nobile, and the Riserva are all made from the same grapes and with the same method, but she decides which will carry the Vino Nobile, the Rosso, and the Riserva label because the flavor, quality, and style are appropriate for that bottling.
“Un’annata, uno vino, tre expressioni,” is her philosophy. In English, that translates to one year, one wine, but three expressions.” Once she decides which bottling the wine will be, she decided on vessels and aging that is appropriate for the designation.
Both the 2020 Sanguineto Vino Nobile and the 2021 Sanguineto Rosso di Montepulciano are made with the local varietal of Sangiovese, called Prugnolo Gentile 80% with Mammolo, Canaiolo, and Nero Toscano comprising the remaining 20%. The Vino Nobile spends longer in oak before release, so it will need a bit more time to open up. Lay it down if you can, or decant if you cannot resist.
The wines are unique and would be fun to taste side by side, so I encourage you to do that. Yes, classic flavors of Tuscany, red berry fruits, dusty herbs, cacao, tobacco leaf, tomato paste, and bacon fat, but there is something remarkable in her wines that invoke earthy notes that are elusive and magical. Take your time and cook something special for her wines, I am going to make porchetta and invite some friends, open both and enjoy a long leisurely meal unrushed by all the work that awaits.
I hope you enjoy the fall picks, let me know what makes you eat, drink and think!
Cheers, Maria