Today is the 15th anniversary of the day that I opened my shop. It is hard to believe that much time has passed, and yet, in consideration of all that I have experienced in the last fifteen years both personally and professionally, it seems like it has been lifetime. I opened the wine shop, the the cheese shop, then a cafe, then I finished my PhD, retired from teaching, survived a painful divorce, moved my home ten times in the same number of years and the shop three times in that span, I sold everything I owned when I was nearing bankruptcy, learned what a spreadsheet was just in time to save my business, and I fell in love, for which I am most grateful. (Yes, there was a pandemic in there, too, but aren’t we all tired of hearing about that.) On top of all of that, I started making wine with some seriousness—just who do I think I am? I naturally reside on the sunny side of the street, but how could I not? I am living a dream, though admittedly, it is not without its challenges.

My parents both owned their own businesses, neither had anything to do with wine or food, but they were entrepreneurs. They worked very hard, they managed the stress and delighted in the satisfaction of success. I learned the spirit of entrepreneurship from them. I work independently, and I prefer it that way. I work a lot, and I like that, too. Friends complain about it, and I have lost a few because of it, which I regret, but this leads me to a greater understanding of myself. I am my work to the extent that I enjoy the research of finding new products, sampling them is my reward and my challenge. I get excited by the prospect of telling you about them before they even arrive. It is with great pleasure that I thank an artisan for their hard work. I think about what I will make for dinner and which wine will pair best with it while I am still constructing breakfast, and I look forward to sharing those details with you.

I have learned so much, which is both the pleasure and a big part of the daily challenge. I trust I won’t stop learning, where would the joy in that be? I am always eager to contemplate your culinary quest, to suggest a wine, to think about what would pair best with a food or a moment. I like deciphering what you are looking for and the language you use to describe it. You know what you are talking about. You know a lot about wine. You have taught me how to communicate and to appreciate interpretation and personal preference. I reserve some power, but that is the nature of the entrepreneur. I refuse to let you buy the same thing more than three times in a row, and you indulge me in insisting that you try Chardonnay, even if you are certain that you won’t like it. I appreciate your flexibility, and I respect your opinion (even if I know I am right!).

The truth is that wine is personal. There is no singular measurement of what tastes good, but there are good wines. For me, delicious wines are those that are made with intention, in harmony with nature, treating the earth with respect and treating all the people along the chain with kindness. Good wines are minimally treated, starting with good fruit, grown sustainably, and manipulated as little as possible. That said, wine making is an art, and it is not a simple one.

My most recent journey is teaching me some lessons about wine making and about the small decisions that are made as a wine is vinified. I have heard it said that the most important decision a wine maker makes is when to pick, and the second most important decision is when to press. There is some truth in that, but it is ignoring so many decisions that will shape the quality and character of the wine. When to process after the pick; whether to destem; whether to crush or leave whole berry; how long to let the grapes sit in cold soak; when to worry about the fermentation starting, and what to do if it doesn’t; pump over or punch down, or both, and how often. (If this list sounds long, I have barely squished the grape!). Watching, smelling, tasting, and listening to the wine as it ferments and responding is a lot like running a small business. It takes patience and attention, nurturing, shaping, and creating, and it requires fortitude and courage and some good guesses.

It also takes a lot of support. If it were not for the support and encouragement of all of you, I would be pounding the pavement trying to find a job. That would not go well. As my dear brother reminded me recently, I haven’t worked for someone else in fifteen years and I wouldn’t likely enjoy relinquishing the power to make my own decisions. (Even if I make a bad one, and I have on more than one occasion, it is mine.)

An anniversary calls for reflection, and I have spent the day doing just that, oscillating between celebratory smirks and tears of self-criticism, but in the end, I am still moving forward. I love what do, and I am fortunate to have such supportive customers, whom I call friends and family that join me while I eat, drink, and think.

Thank you & Cheers!

Keep Calm, and Press On