Slow down, we move too fast…

Here we are into the last month of the year, and in what seems like a blink of an eye, the year is nearly over.  With each passing year, I feel I say this with even greater surprise. The only way to slow down time, is to slow down ourselves, so that is what I must do.  Sit longer with a friend, talking of ideas, nibbling on foods that far exceed the needs of nutrients and sipping on delights that bring joy and pause for thought. 

These notes are an exercise in slow delights.  Each month, I forage through the offerings available for your selections, contemplate the wines that will best fit into the club and that will elevate your meals, snacks, and shared or quiet moments.  This month, I also tasked myself with helping you to slow down.  It is a self-serving exercise, I admit it, but it is also one of the gifts of food and wine. Perhaps, it is the most rewarding gift. It makes us stop and think about what to eat, what to pair, how to prepare, and then cook, serve, and enjoy.

When we open a bottle of wine, prepare a meal, we step away from our tasks, work, responsibilities and we use our senses for joy, nurturing, and satisfaction.  I love the cut of the foil, the squeak of the cork screw (or the crack of the breaking seal on a screw top), the pop of the cork, the splash of the wine into my glass, as I watch the wave of color curl into its resting place and inhale the aromatics. I smile, sip, and swallow, exhaling to receive the full impact of the aroma and bouquet.  All senses alert and alighted! 

Is the 59th Street Bridge playing in your head, yet?  “Slow down, you move to fast.  You got to make the moment last.  Just kickin’ down the cobblestones. Looking for love and feelin’ groovy.” Thanks Simon & Garfunkel for that one! 

Enjoy December, the sunshine is so bright and the air brisk.  It is a time to enjoy our friends, reflect on the year, gather together and show our gratitude for each other.  I hope these wines give you the opportunity for all of that, as well as a quiet moment, perhaps at the stove stirring. 

Cheers, Maria 

Risotto—A Stirring Meditation 

I am not so good at stillness, but I am good at making risotto, which requires that you stand in one place and stir without stopping, watching the rice cooking in a simmer of broth, continuously moving a wooden spoon through the simmering liquid to ensure the creaminess of the sauce that surrounds each piece of perfectly cooked rice.  If that isn’t a practice of slowing down and being present, then I don’t know what is!  Here is one of my favorite recipes for the holiday season.   

Roasted Beet Risotto 

This is adapted from a Martha Stewart recipe.  I don’t remember where I originally found it, but I have made my tweaks, and you should make your own! 

6 medium size red beets with the greens 

2 shallots 

1 clove garlic, roasted 

2 cups Carnaroli rice (Arborio also great), rinsed 

½ cup dry white wine 

2-3 cups vegetable stock (chicken also works) 

½ cup red wine, optional 

2 tablespoons butter 

1 cup grated parmesan 

1. Place whole beets in an oven proof dish about an about an inch of water, cover, and place a whole head of garlic in there, too.  Roast at 375 for 45 minutes. (Tip:  use a serrated knife to cut off the top of the garlic, so you can easily squeeze out the roasted cloves when done.) 

2. Rough chop the beet greens, and reserve. 

3. Remove the beets, use a paring knife to peel. The skins sort of slide off, easily. Cut the beets into 1/2inch cubes. (Yes, they can stain, so use a board that is easy to wash.) Reserve the roasting liquid.  It is usually a bright red, so you can add it to the risotto for color. 

4.  Squeeze the garlic head to release the roasted garlic paste. 

5. Heat stock in a stock pot.  Simmer is hot enough. 

6. Put a few tablespoons of olive oil in a saucepan, heated over medium heat.  (Tip: always heat your pan first, then add your fat, heat that through before adding any ingredients.) 

7. Reduce the pan to low and add finely diced shallots.  (Yes, an onion works fine, I just like the intensity of shallots.) Cover and sweat the allium of your choice for 8 minutes or until translucent. 

8. Add a clove of the roasted garlic, or more to taste. Using the wooden spoon to break it up, it will melt into the shallots. 

9. Raise the heat to medium-high, add your risotto rice and stir, using your wooden spoon. (This is an important step, as it is creating the foundation for the creaminess of your risotto, so give it some love.) 

10. You will see the rice begin to become translucent, with a white center after about 5 minutes.  At this point, add the white wine and stir.  It will sizzle and then get absorbed by the rice. (Some Italians have questioned this step, but I like the punch the acidity of the wine gives the dish. You decide for yourself) 

11. Now, you will add ¼ cup of your hot stock and stir until it has been absorbed by the rice. Continue to add the stock at ¼ cup increments. I usually need all of the stock, and it takes about 30 minutes.  (Yes, Stand, Stir, and just inhale the aromatics that are swirling around you. When asked if someone can step in, politely decline and enjoy your meditative moment.  Also, enjoy the satisfaction of knowing that your own way of stirring makes the dish uniquely your own 😉) 

12. When the stock is absorbed and the rice is cooked but still has a bite, add the red wine, the chopped beet greens, butter, salt and pepper to your taste, and finely grated parmigiana.  Stir a bit more to combine.  It should be creamy. 

13. Serve on warmed dishes.  

14. Garnish plates with finely chopped parsley. 

I like this dish on its own, as a main, but it is also wonderful with a tenderloin.  Beef and beets go nicely together. As an option, sear a tuna steak with loads of black pepper on it, or just make a beautiful chicory salad with an anchovy dressing and enjoy the risotto.  I am sure that the two open bottles of wine conveniently opened for your recipe will both pair nicely with your meal. Generally, I serve the same wine that I cook with, as the flavors are already in the dish. 

Mangia! 

Your Wine Notes, Dec. 2024 

Value Wines

If you are seeking a good value, there are  a number of great wines that are still under $20 that are satisfying and delicious.  To begin, if you are like me and want a cold wine regardless of the weather outside, I suggest the  2022 Chateau le Raz Bergerac Blanc.  It is a fresh, fruity, and aromatic Sauvignon Blanc that has a pinch of Semillon that rounds the tangy edges a little.  There is a surprising and very pleasant minerality that balances the fruit.  I would have this one in the fridge at all times, in case someone pops in for a splash to celebrate.  It would be wonderful with some fresh goat cheese, salads, or Asian foods.  If you seek something a bit weightier, grab the 2020 Kuentz Bas Pinot Blanc. 

There are a number of wines that continue to prove to me that you need not pay a premium for quality wines steeped in tradition, and the Kuentz-Bas Wines are among them.  This one is floral and honeyed, but dry and bright, with complex aromas.  It is mouth watering and will complete your meal, even elevate it.  Try it with a fondue, roasted pork, or pan seared fish. 

 If you want cold, but not white, consider the 2023 Pomalo Rosé which will deliver a surprising burst of exciting aromas straight out of the glass, red berries, pink grapefruit, peach, and cherry. It is 100% Blaufrankish, from Slovenia, and it would be wonderful with turkey, if you still have some left over. It is truly a bright, fresh, dry rosé with surprising complexity for its modest price point. Alternatively, I offer a bonus wine this month for all my club members, and bubbles, no less!

Finding a delcious, dry, crisp, refreshing sparkling wine for less that $20 these days is a Christmas miracle in itself, but I found one. You will love it! The NV Casa di Malia Vino Frizzante, Prosecco, from the Veneto, 100% Glera is from a family-owner vineyard, certified organic…seriously, how is this so reasonable? It has a wonderful lemon zest and pear fruit combination with soft, lively bubbles. Enjoy it on its own as you stir that risotto!

 Yes, tis the season for reds, I know, and I have a few of those for you as well. To begin with a medium bodied, spicy little number, the 2022 Chateau de Ruth—Jardin de Ruth is Grenache and Marcelan. It is smooth, easy but not without complexity. Coming from an estate that dates back to the 16th century, it is no surprise that the wine has character. Plum fruit, a little black berry, touch of spice, good tannins and a nice long warming finish. Enjoy this one with lighter meats, charcuterie, and warm winter stews.

The two other reds in the value picks are both more full bodied. The 2018 Victor, Côtes de Castillon is another new wine for us. It is is stylistically traditional to the region with of reserve up front, more fruit on themed plate and supple, well integrated tannins. It has abundant brambly fruit and nuanced flavors of tobacco and leather and spice with some black pepper. This is ideal for game, red meats, or mushroom dishes.

2019 Rodrigo Duoro Red is from northern Portugal, it is rich and intense with

 Select Wines

2023 Marquiliani Rosé 

2020 Kuentz Bas Riesling 

2019 Fram Chenin Blanc 

2022 Domaine du Petit Clocher Anjou Rouge 

2020 Côtes de Berne Moulin à Vent 

2021 Villa S’Anna Chianti Sensi 

 Collector

2023 Clos Sainte Magdeliene Cassis Blanc 

2018 Chateau Pradeaux Rouge 

Pressed for Thought

We are still enjoying some summer-like days, but the thing about fall is the scent in the air of decomposing leaves, harvest bonfires, the caramelized aroma of roasting vegetables and toasting spices, the yeasty richness of warming bread, and we are drawn to cozy up inside a bit more. I find myself looking up new recipes for using my stocks for stews and hearty soups or sauces.  It is with this in mind that I think about pairings this month.   

Coincidentally, we have a holiday coming, which remains a favorite for so many as we gather around the table with friends and family to celebrate the abundance that harvest has provided.  This year, I am saving a big bag of my pressings from a new wine—Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot, to make a harvest sauce.  I learned this sauce from a chef in Seattle years ago, and it is divine on a simple beef tenderloin.   

It is with these flavors in mind that I make my November picks, and here they are. 

Responsible Indulgence—Wine Notes 

While it gets more difficult to find great wines that are under $20, they do exist.  Follow Eric Asimov in the New York Times for loads of suggestions. I work hard to keep the shop stocked with them, too.  I get it,  I want to enjoy wine every day, so a selection of solid, value wines that will satisfy and elevate my meal or snack is a must.  Here are my picks for November: 

21 Thirst Cinsault is a “natural” wine from Radford Dale in Stellenbosch.  It is a fun, playful, fruity little number that is ideally suited for your Turkey Day Celebrations with crunchy dark cherry notes and a grippy finish.  It acts the same way cranberry sauce would for the turkey, providing sweet tart flavors and loads of fruit. This may seem like a departure from their other wines, but it has the very same quality that we have come to expect from this producer, just a youthful package! 

(I put natural in quotation marks because the winery uses that term to describe the wine, but in truth there is not a clear definition or any regulation within the industry designating that category.  What is generally accepted is wines that are fermented with native yeast, complete all fermentation and bottling with little or no additives, and are left unfiltered when bottled.) 

If you are seeking something a bit more refined, but still a light to medium bodied red for your autumnal menu, try the 2021 Foretal Beaujolais Villages.  This is not a new one for us, by any stretch of the imagination, but it is a new vintage, and it is consistent is style and quality.  The Foretal has always been a very good value because of the quality of the wine.  It has finesse that exceeds its modest price point.  The aromatics and flavors of cherry, berry, and thyme are balanced with a hint of acidity and just enough grip to make this complex and more compelling than other Gamay’s in the under $20 category. Yes, great for your Thanksgiving day menu, but just an altogether, year-round red that is food flexible and delicious on its own. 

Sometimes, we want a fuller red, so I include one of those as well.  The 2022 Produttori Manduna Electric Bee Primitivo will give you the intensity you seek.  Primitivo is the “sister” grape of American Red Zinfandel, and in fact it shares much the same DNA; evidence supports that both grapes come to us from Croatia, where they are called Tribidrag. What I love about this wine is the balance of acidity that allows for the abundant fruit on the midpalate.   

Strawberry, raspberry, tobacco and spice, all delivered in a deep dark garnet colored wine with loads of body and intensity.  It would pair well with roasted pork loin, eggplant parmesan, ribs, or just a nice piece of Taleggio and a stick of dry sausage. (That’s what we grew up calling salami our here!) 

For something cold in the value range, I suggest the 2023 Guipiere L’Escailler.  From one of the highest acid grapes on planet earth, Gros Plant! (a.k.a. Folle Blanche, also known as Muscadet).  This amazing wine is sourced from 40 year old vines planted in the mica-schist soils of the Pays Nantais where the Loire river spills into the Atlantic ocean. Bone-dry with crisp acids and pure minerality, this is one of the purest, raciest shellfish partners of the world. It is so good with fresh seafood, so follow our friends at Eating with the Ecosystem for suggestions on what is seasonally available and get your local fish at our Aquidneck Grower’s Market. Oysters are always a good pick for this varietal. 

For a white with a bit more body and texture, the 2023 Pedro Martinez Alesanco Blanco is my pick for fall.  While the wine is more full-bodied, it is still crisp and fresh, and yes, dry.  Remember, dry and fruity can coexist, but usually, when they do, the wine is more complex, richer in style.  The wine is made with a blend of Viura, White Tempranillo, Malvasia, and Sauvignon Blanc.  All of these are aromatic grapes, so expect a wonderfully perfumed nose—and enjoy it!  It is as surprising on the palate with green apple, pear, lemon peel, and exotic fruits, but also wet stone and oyster shells. Pairs well with shellfish, quiches, cheese, and salads. 

I could not resist squeezing a sparkling in for you.  Don’t worry, you can grab a rosé if you like, we have one ready for you and always encourage pairing a rosé with Thanksgiving and just about any other meal! This time of year calls for celebration, and one cannot possibly do that without bubbles.  Often value priced bubbles can leave one feeling, well, flat, but not the Mary Taylor, Sophia Bresscia Veneto Frizzante!  

Mary Taylor is the importer, but she works very closely with her winemakers to provide an outlet for them to export the wines.  She also provides us a very economical way to enjoy delicious wine!  Here are her notes, “Frizzante wine is a lower pressure than Spumante. The bubbles are a result of the addition of tirage – in this case 15-25 g/l concentrated grape must is added as part of the liqueur d’expedition before secondary fermentation. From the foothills of the Alps on the east side of the province of Vicenza, vineyards planted upwards of 30 years ago bear fruit of the Glera and Garganega grapes. The winery works sustainably, and in concert with the local eco-system. Grasses and flowers grow between the rows. Sofia Brescia is a name given to honor to previous generation of wine growers, many of who were women that have been forgotten by historical naming conventions.”  The wine is fresh, soft citrus notes and pear, and is delightful on its own, but will saddle up to some chunked up Parmigiano and thinly sliced Prosciutto. 

At the Select level, where we have a bit more flexibility and what is likely the best values of quality for the price, I always have a hard time narrowing down the suggestions. So many wines, so little time!  To begin with, I return to a perennial favorite, Ginny Povall, who never disappoints me.  Ginny has been in the shop, so you have likely met her and tried her South African wines. She makes beautiful wine, full stop, and her 2018 Botanica Semillon is a favorite of mine because of its elegant style, texture and body.  This is an ideal white for Chardonnay drinkers, as it shares some stylistic character. You will note flavors of peach, lemon, and beeswax, with a suggestion of earl grey tea.  On the finish there is abundant minerality that expresses itself in a saline flavor.  Enjoy this one with roasted vegetables, gratins, and lighter meats. 

For a white on the lighter side, try the 23 Prodittori di Manduria "Alice" Verdeca, a native grape to Puglia.  This wine is bright, fresh, and bursting with citrus and exotic fruits.  It is an alluring aromatic white that would pair well with richer dishes, as it would cut through the fat to refresh the palate. I am thinking about Chicken Pot Pie! 

I have given you all the option of a sparkling wine, but I can’t resist including a rosé, particularly one so well suited for Turkey.  The 2023 Manarine Rosé is a blend of Grenache (60%), and  Mourvèdre and Syrah, which comprise the remaining 40%.  It is a direct to press rosé, which means that the grapes were picked with the intention of making rosé, the grapes go directly into the press upon arrival that the winery. The result is a wine of intention and the quality is unmistakable.  It is smooth, flavorful and aromatic, with berry notes, earthy aromas, and an elegant structure. The real value of this method of wine making is in the wine’s lasting power.  Direct to Press typically results in a wine that continues to improve with age, as is the case with the Manarine.  It would be a wonderful accompaniment to your turkey! 

For reds, the seasonal table calls for intensity, but I still want to keep those wines fresh and balanced, so you can enjoy them with food.  To begin with, I am offering a lighter style Cabernet Franc from the Loire.  2023 Lame Delisle Boucard Cab Franc, Nom de Zeus! Is a young vines CF made in stainless steel for a brighter and fresher style.  The complexity is there and all the expected Cabernet Franc flavors—blackberry, red fruits, barnyard (yes this is good, not Brett), peppered notes, and loose earth.  Another wonder of organic production and farming, simply made, for a unique style and a delicious wine.  This one can stand alone as a fun cocktail red, even serve it with a chill. 

For a bit more full bodied, and a traditional style the 2022 Mary Taylor, Anna Sarda Coteaux de Cabrerisse comes to us from Anne Sarda, in the south west of France in the Languedoc region of France.  It is 100% Carignan from 50+ year old vines, all dry farmed, hand harvested, and minimally treated in the winery.  Wine from the Languedoc consistently confirm for me the value of this region.  Surely, the region was previously known for quantity over quality, but that has changed!  These are true vignerons, growers and winemakers, who take great pride in the wines.   

What is more, Mary Taylor is investing her energy into bringing these small producers to us with enthusiasm!  Importer's notes on the wine: “Our winemaker Anne Sarda and her team do their vineyard work by hand.  Carignan vines, up to 60 years old, grow as bush vines at 130 meters altitude, necessitating hand harvest and producing low yields of 30 hl/ha.  The climate is dry and the vines struggle in their stony soils – too stony to even plant cover crops.  It is a wild and rural landscape, yet strikingly beautiful and natural. No pesticides, no herbicides, and no irrigation are employed.  The estate is HVE Level 3 Certified. After the intense labor in the vineyards, Anne works with a delicate touch in the cellar.  Spontaneous fermentation by native, ambient yeasts takes place in large concrete tanks, followed by 10 days’ maceration, then aging in old concrete vessels that are at least 60 (and up to 105 years!) old.  The wine is not fined, just lightly filtered and an infinitesimal 2 g/hl of sulfur is added right before bottling. 

Saint Laurent de la Cabrerisse is one of the 5 municipalities that qualify for the small Coteaux de Cabrerisse IGP.  Anne’s rendition of it – expressing all the character of those old Carignan vines on stony soils – is intense and pure.” Mary is doing some great things for both the winemakers and the consumers. 

Don’t resist Merlot!  I feel a personal commitment to advocate for this poor grape that one movie set on a trajectory doomed for oblivion.  The irony of the film, of course, is that Paul Giamatti’s character enjoys a bottle of Merlot at the end of the film, but as with much irony, it was lost on most.  That said, it has encouraged California Merlot producers to up their game.  The beauty of the varietal is its versatility.  It has all the fruit of a pinot with the structure and grip of a Cabernet.  It can pair well with tomato, as with a Super Tuscan, or accompany a standing rib roast, or throw down with a South African Braai, as is the case with the 2020 Big Flower Merlot.  It is another example of Ginny Povall’s winemaking acumen.  The wine drinks like a $45 bottle, but retails for only $28!!  It is a wine that you should always have on hand, so buy 6 extra and keep them in stock for a moment when friends pop in. 

For those seeking a bolder red expression, you may want to try the newest option for the club—Big, Bold, Beautiful! This is a 6 pack of delicious bold reds at the Select Level, designed just for those seeking that style.  This month, we included P&R Green, Bodega Ceron El Tiempo Que,  Fram Shiraz, Dancing Crow Cabernet Sauvignon, Broc The Perfect Red, and Owen Roe, Ex Umbris Syrah.  The wines are balanced, of course, but more full bodied and very satisfying.  Let me know if you would like to switch to this for a month, or add it to your current subscription.  With the right foods, you can drink them all year round, but they are particularly good this time of year.  It is like wrapping up in a big blanket! 

There are two more wines, for those feeling the impulse to splurge a little.  For the Collector Level, I selected two Spanish wines that will elevate your fall meals.  Arguably, Spain still offers us great values for wines that are both elegant and rustic for under $75.  While this may seem like a lot of money, consider that you get six four-ounce glasses of wine from a bottle, which means that you are paying a little more than $12 per glass.  By any standard, that is still affordable, albeit a luxurious one.  The wines are truly remarkable and worth a splurge now and again. 

As examples of the elegant rusticity (or is it rustic elegance?), I offer two reds: The 2022 Envinate Lousas Vina de Aldea and the 2022 Comando G. To explain, the heat of Spain, along with its rugged terrain has historically produced wine that reflects the character of the terroir.  That said, in the 90’s and into the 2000’s, many Spanish winemakers committed themselves to redefining the reputation by elevating the stye and quality of the Grenache to compete with the wines of France and Italy. These wines have not lost their identity but rather illustrate wines that can compete on the world stage.   

Comando G comes from a vineyard high in the Sierra de Gredos, discovered and cultivated by two friends, Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia, who created the project in 2008.  They sought out largely inaccessible vineyards with great promise, and they began making Grenache with elegance and finesse.  Biodynamic farming, high altitude granite and slate soils, mild climate with good humidity all contribute to the quality and character of the wine. These are surprisingly aromatic wines, concentrated and bold, but with a freshness that balances the fruit.  

The 2022 Envinate Lousas Vinas de Aldea is from the Ribera Sacra and is a blend of several grapes, including Grenache.  It has been described as both ‘burly and refined,”  due to the combination of soils, climate, and winemaking techniques. The 60+ year old vines contribute to the complexity of flavors.  Like its partner, Comando G, the wine comes from a more obscure place in the corners of Spain and is the result of friendship.  Roberto Santana, Alfonso Torrente, Laura Ramos, and Jose Martinez formed a winemaking project and Envinate is the result of that work.  Their aim is to make pure and authentic wines that express the terroir but to do so with precision and finesse.  They have achieved their goal. 

These wine deserves a moment to open up, so decant if you can.  Enjoy it with stewed meats, or make a pot of Caldo Gallego and enjoy! 

Whatever calls you to eat and drink this month, I hope this has given you a little something to think about. 

Cheers, Maria