wines for the fall table

Responsible Indulgence—NWC&G’s Wine Club 

November 2022 Wine Notes 

Feel like this year is flying by at an unusually rapid speed?  You are not alone.  I have heard it more often than ever before, and I feel it myself.  I am not entirely sure what contributes to this perception, but I am certain that it feels very real despite the rational fact that time does not move any faster than it ever has. Regardless of the source of this perception, I am tasked with encouraging you to slow our pace.  A good glass of wine should help.  I came home on Saturday evening, after a day of errands and work, and I found myself with a feeling of urgency; the truth is that we had no particular plans at all. Other than a rumbling in my stomach, nothing was pressing.  I stood still in the kitchen for a moment, took a deep breath, and smiled as I set myself to the preparation of some food.   

I remembered that my busy day had been filled with things that I love to do.  One of my errands was a trip to the local farmer’s market in Bristol, and I joyfully remembered some thick cut pork chops that were in my fridge. After a brief consultation with my partner in crime, we decided that this first cool evening needed warmth. Mac & cheese with pan seared pork chops was just what the doctor ordered. Music queues, apron on, and knife in hand, I began to slow my evening, preparing food, sipping wine, dancing in the kitchen. Certain things cannot be rushed, and it is a wonderful reminder to tap the brakes, slow down, and enjoy the ride. 

Value Wines 

2018 Tipsy Rose Grenache, California. I started making a small amount of wine in 2016, and I have with great pleasure continued to do so. In 2018, my grapes were sourced from Matthew Rorick’s Vineyard. Matt grows all organically without watering and harvests at under 24 brix to keep acidity and freshness. I love this vintage. The wine is fresh and approachable with low tannins. For 2016, I did a whole cluster fermentation with all foot stomping, went into barrel once the wine went dry, and bottled a year later after racking once. No other filtering or fining, and just a pinch of SO2 at bottling to ensure the wine could travel safely. I love Grenache, to answer your question about why that grape. That said, I prefer a style that is not heavily extracted, so I did my best to keep it a gentle ferment. The result is medium bodies, fresh, and easy drinking with red and black fruits, herbs and a touch of orange zest. It is nicely suited for hearty dishes which makes it ideal for this time of year. It is juicy, so consider it with turkey! 

2019 La Viarte Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy. I often describe this wine as Pinot Grigio that has a little more going on. Sadly, PG has gotten a bit of a bad rep in our market due to the influx of way too much subpar juice, but La Viarte will change that! In 1984 Giuseppe and Carla Ceschin celebrated the first harvest of the vineyard in Propotto, Friuli. They realized a long worked for dream, and chose the regional dialect for “spring” as their winery name because this began a new era in their lives. Now, their son Giulio and his wife Federica have expanded the property while still maintaining the ecological balance of the land. They continue to focus on heirloom varieties and make delicious wines. This is a house white for me, so I always have one on hand. It is food flexible and great as an aperitif. This week, I am making a Tuscan white bean and winter greens stew, and the wine will be great with it. Early, I made a tuna carpaccio and it was divine together! 

2021 Aveleda Rosé of Vinho Verde, Portugal. Bright, fresh and refreshing, but also a lovely cherry midpalate that gives this wine longevity in the rosé calendar, meaning it is a good fit for this time of year. I like this one as an aperitif. It is great for sipping while I cook because of its soft effervescence that comes from the acidity of the grapes. While this winery pushes the boundary of my small production approach, it is still a family run winery with passion and integrity. The wines are delicious, but there is also an ethos to what they do. 

2020 Tenuta Pergola Rosso, Langhe, Italy. This is a tasty blend, which from year to year can vary, but the 2020 is mostly Barbera and Dolcetto, two of Piedmont’s often underappreciated grapes. I revisited this wine recently with a burger from Mission, and the pairing was out of this world. The wine has all this fantastic juicy berry, plum, and cherry flavors with a velvety tannins and a nice smokey, leather finish. Thinking about French fries? Yes, you get it. The salt and fat wants this kind of plumpness...think of what ketchup does for your fries, and you will understand why this wine works so well. It is a steal for under $20!  

2016 Les Chemins de Seve Metamorphoses, Southern Rhone, France. A blend of a handful of the southern Rhone red grapes—Grenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and the result is a complex, flavorful wine of character and charm. The blend of red and black fruits give it both bright flavors and rich ones, and the spice and herbal notes on the finish make it an ideal match for Spanish or South American dishes, or perhaps something Moroccan. It is the spice I am after with this one! 

2020 Villemeade Blanc, Cheverny, Loire, France. This is one that I get super excited about. It arrives only once or twice a year and in very limited quantities, and now that I have put it in your boxes, I suspect you will also covet this remarkable juice! It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, as is the way in Cheverny. It sees no oak after a full alcoholic ferment and malo, so it has both texture and richness with a crisp, lean minerality that is laser sharp. It is a flexible food wine, pairing with anything from hearty salads adorned with roasted squash and hazelnuts to roasted meats, or mushroom duxelles. Enjoy it, and you too will await its next visit. 

Select Wines 

2018 A. & G. Fantino Rosso Dei Dardi Vino Rosso Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy. If you are looking for an approachable, easy drinking Nebbiolo that goes with anything, look no further. It is not surprising that it would be delicious, it is made by a rockstar Barolo producer in the Piedmont. The wine has a brightness of acidity and some grippy tannins that give structure to the intense dark fruit. It is deceivingly light in the glass for such impactful aromas and flavor. I suggest this one with some butternut squash soup! 

2019 Meyer-Fonne Gentil d'Alsace, France. Alsace is well known for single varietals of fragrant and delicate Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris, but it is also appreciated for the blend of those grapes in what is known as Gentil. This nectar of the gods originates in the 1920’s and is a magical blend that seems to retain all the original character of the single varietals while exhibiting uniquely its own identity. It has wonderful rich aromatics, both floral and fruity, a delicate fruity approach, with pear and nectarine and blossom, the finish is long and bracing with a touch of coriander spice on the finish. It is wonderful to refresh the palate or to finish a meal with a cheese course. 

2021 Domaine Phillipe Menatou Salon Rosé, Loire, France. I am so pleased there is some richer rosé left to enjoy in November. This is a Loire rosé made with pinot noir, which gives the distinctive cherry note and a little tannin texture to the surprisingly light pink wine. Only a short maceration and then direct to press for this rosé. I would save this one for Turkey Day, as its balance of fruit and acidity is like the bowl of freshly made cranberry sauce—tangy, zippy, and deliciously fruity! 

2019 Gregoletto Colli Trevigiani Manzoni Bianco, Colli, Trevigiani IGT Veneto, Italy. With any of the lesser-known varietals, people often ask for a comparable grape. This wine resists such comparisons. I have read that it is a hybrid cross of Riesling and Pinot Blanco, or perhaps Chardonnay, but there is not sufficient evidence. Either way, the character of each of these grapes makes an appearance, and then there are surprising laser sharp notes of minerality, citrus zest and crisp acidity. All this diversity means that you can enjoy this wine as an aperitif or with shellfish or grilled chicken—super food flexible, you will want replacement bottles! 

2020 Villemade Rouge, Cheverny, Loire, France. This blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay is absolutely dreamy. 2020 vintage was particularly excellent for the region, which means that Herve Villemade has made a delicious wine again! It has beautiful aromas of ripe berry and cherry, violet and nectarine, blood orange; light to medium body with a nice chalkiness for texture and structure. It is refreshing and served with a slight chill it gives off a tart, sappy taste on the finish. Great with mild cheeses, dried meats, egg dishes, light meats, and roasted winter vegetables. 

2018 Tipsy Rose Grenache, California. I started making a small amount of wine in 2016, and I have with great pleasure continued to do so. In 2018, my grapes were sourced from Matthew Rorick’s Vineyard. Matt grows all organically without watering and harvests at under 24 brix to keep acidity and freshness. I love this vintage. The wine is fresh and approachable with low tannins. For 2016, I did a whole cluster fermentation with all foot stomping, went into barrel once the wine went dry, and bottled a year later after racking once. No other filtering or fining, and just a pinch of SO2 at bottling to ensure the wine could travel safely. I love Grenache, to answer your question about why that grape. That said, I prefer a style that is not heavily extracted, so I did my best to keep it a gentle ferment. The result is medium bodies, fresh, and easy drinking with red and black fruits, herbs and a touch of orange zest. It is nicely suited for hearty dishes which makes it ideal for this time of year. It is juicy, so consider it with turkey! 

Collector’s Wines—Arianna Occhipinti 

In 1998 Giusto Occhipinti, undoubtably one of Sicily’s finest wine makers, invited his young niece to help him at VinItaly and it was there, Arianna caught the bug. After she studied viticulture and oenology. She began making her own wine with a hectare of abandoned vines in Vittoria in Sicily, and she quickly grew, renting vines, and in 2014 finally building her own cellar where she began to experiment with different vessel types. Her wines were widely appreciated for quality and style. She has followed her uncle's techniques of natural fermentation and organic wine growing and making, working with simple and traditional techniques and indigenous grapes. Her wines bespeak the Sicinian soil, climate, and culture, and I adore them. 

In 2017 Stanly Tucci visited Arianna for his wildly popular series Searching for Italy, which is a lot of fun to watch, but also makes Arianna’s wines really difficult to get our hands on. This year, I was allocated just enough for your boxes. Enjoy, you deserve it. Thanks for being collectors ❤️. 

2020 Occhipinti Il Frappato. The grapes are destemmed and macerate for 30 days, which gives the wine intense flavor and depth of character with grip. It also ages in Slovenian oak for 14 months, minimum, which gives the wine structure and texture. The wine is racked, but no other filtering or fining occurs. It is a masterpiece and deserves a special meal. Braised short rib ragu would suit me.  

"Il Frappato stems from a dream which I had when I was a girl to make a wine that knows the land that I work, the air I breathe and my own thoughts. It is bitter, bloody and elegant. That is Vittoria and the Iblei Mountains. It is the wine that most resembles me, brave, original and rebellious. But not only. It has peasant origins, for this it loves its roots and the past that it brings in; but, at the same time, it is able to fight to improve itself. It knows refinement without forgetting itself." Arianna Occhipinti 

2019 Occhipinti Siccagno, Nero D'Avola. The grapes are treated similarly to the Frappato, though aged longer in barrel before bottling, but the expression is quite different. Nero D’Avola is dark and rich with more intense flavors of brambly fruit, plum, tobacco and earth. I love the mushroom quality of this one. Food pairings are similar, but I am tempted to enjoy this with lamb tagine.  

These wines are special. Several months ago, you received the COS wines, which are made by Arianna’s uncle, who introduced her to wine long ago. Undoubtably, he made his imprint upon her style and technique. If you still have one, perhaps allow them to comingle with your meal...invite some friends and enjoy! 

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Whatever your level, I hope you enjoy this month’s selections and pairings. I trust we have given you some inspiration to eat, drink, and think. 

Cheers, Maria 

Responsible Indulgence—October Wine Notes 

Thank you all my club members for your continued support.  I know the transition to the new system had a few glitches, and I apologize for that and thank you for your patience.  Being part of the club means that you are helping to sustain a small business and advocate for the farmers and winemakers that we represent.  You also have been patient about these wine notes!  I have been in California for harvest, so I am terribly late.  I apologize for that! What you have already figured out, if you have been enjoying the wines, is that I have started to move to more robust, richer bodied wines that are more intensely flavored.  It is time to put on a sweater and enjoy wines with more concentration and intensity.  I have not completely turned the corner yet, but rather kept a few lighter wines, for when you need to refresh.  I love those days that we layer with a sweater & end up with a tank, and for those, I still want crisp and clean, so we have a few of those, too. 

To begin, the Value three pack has the 2020 Herdade do Peso, the 2021 Primaterra Pinot Grigio, and the 2022 Radley & Finch Rose. I am not sure why, but I always start with the red and I am too old to change now.  This Portuguese juicy little number is going to knock your socks off.  Made from Antao Vaz, it has lots of black fruit, rich flavors of black berry, plum, and a touch of raisin.  I am impressed with the quality of this red for the buck.  It has nice supple tannins, which I adore because it makes me want to eat.  With this one, I suggest a little roasted pork, it likes the crispy bits!   

You may be enjoying the lingering warm, autumnal sunshine and want something a bit lighter, if so, grab that Primaterra PG for something with a nice hit of forward fruit and crisp lean finish.  If you are looking for a bit more tart flavor, the Radley & Finch Cinsault Rosé will deliver.  It has a nice burst of fruit on the front palate, but then a tart, somewhere between a raspberry and a cranberry, finish.  It is easy to chill and just enjoy while you are cooking, but it has enough going on to handle some food.  I served it with a beet risotto the other day and the acidity cut right through the creaminess of the rice, while the fruit was a nice contrast with the earthiness of the beets. 

To balance out the Value wines, I included the 2020 Combel la Serre Cahors, 2018 La Cartuja Priorat, and 2020 Oppenauer Gruner Veltliner. These three wines all share an intensity of flavor that I just love and that makes them all food friendly wines, which means that they provide an opportunity to gather with friends.  To begin with the Gruner from Oppenauer, a family run organic winery that has been making wine for over 200 years, and they are committed to making wine accessible both in price and style.  The wine is fresh, with complex flavors of tropical fruits and stone fruit, bone dry but great fruit and a lot of minerality.  I also get a tart finish on this one, which suggests that I am in a more savory and tart mood for my fall table. 

The two reds are both fairly full flavored, intense in their styles but medium in body, so not overwhelming their potential food companions.  The Cahor is a Dressner treat! This one didn’t even make it to the shelves—it is just for club members. It is 100% Malbec, but French not South American, so think ripe black fruits, tobacco, cocoa and leather, with cedar and spice, but good acidity and nice tannins to balance it out.  The interesting thing is that they use 20% whole cluster direct to press, so this keeps the wine lighter and fresh.  They are 30-year-old vines, so this is a serious wine that outshines its value price point. 

For those who want a little more power, grab the 2018 La Cartuja Priorat! It has bright brilliant color that draws your eye in first, and then aromas of black berry and licorice with a touch of smoke, and a gentle perfume. On the palate it is juicy, fleshy and luscious, with a long mineral finish. It has a youthful approach, and would age well, if you can resist her charms! Try it with some grilled steak and veggies! 

For the Select wines, you are getting a nice dose of Dressner with the 2019 D'Oupia Minervois red, the 2020 Luneau Papin, and from Kermit’s remaining stash of pink the 2021 Joguet Rosé. Let’s start with the rosé because it is one of my favorites. I resist this word generally, but this wine rocks my world! It is 100% Cabernet Franc, rich and bold, and fleshy in the mouth. You want a pork roast –or better yet, save this one for Thanksgiving because it would be great with Turkey. 

The Luneau Papin is one of the best Muscadet that you will find—in value, quality, flavor, and its reflection of the specific soil type of its vineyard site. It has a wonderful granite quality. The vigneron, Marie Chartier-Luneau explains that she isolates each cuvee, producing a dozen different wines, rather than blending, because she wants to highlight the individual terroir that each vineyard expresses. 

The D’Oupia Minervois is a perennial favorite around here. For this time of year, you need a powerful red with a little body and this one will deliver that for you. Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah from older vines of the estate, including some of the hillside plantings that are up to 100 years old. They ferment in concrete for texture and body, and the wine has loads of dark fruit and supple tannins. It is ideal for a burger and some fries! 

To round out those Select wines, you get a real treat with the 2021 Majas Blanc, the 2021 Majas Rouge, and the 2020 Domaine Richaud Terres D’Aigles. These are all Dressner allocations, which went straight to my club members. I look forward to these wines each year and many of you do, too. This is your reward for being part of the club! These three wines are all form the southwest of France, and each one is unique, but they are all grown in clay and limestone soils in the heat of the region. To begin, the white, Majas Blanc is a more weighty white made with Macabeu, Rolle, and Carignan Blanc that goes direct to press. The wine is fermented on the lees in concrete eggs, which gives it texture and weight. I love the balance of ripe tropical fruit with minerality and savory notes on the finish. The Majas Rouge, also from Roussillon, is made with Carignan and Grenache Noir in a 50/50 blend. The whole cluster fermentation in concrete gives the wine a lot of fresh berry notes, but the access to oxygen through the concrete while small, allows for malo to take place. That gives texture and also creaminess of flavor. Both of these wines will be on my table this week when I roast my weekly chicken—yes, it is perfect for this meal. 

The Domaine Richaud is a brand new one for us. Here are the wine makers notes “The first cuvée is called Terres d'Aigles, from younger Grenache and Carignan vines growing on alluvial soil along the river Aigues. This wine is fresh and fruity, with lovely cherry notes. The Côtes-du-Rhône les Garrigues comes from a mix of plots and vines of Syrah and Grenache 10 to 40 years of age growing on red clay and round stones. It is spicy, ripe and peppery, with more structure.” I am excited to try this one! 

For the Collector’s among you, I have a couple New World rockstars that I only get a case of, so wanted you to have first dibs!  The 2017 Day Zinfandel is Failla’s second label, and the 2021 Testalonga Sweet Cheeks Chenin comes by way of South Africa from a young and up and coming wine maker who is worth keeping an eye on. 

Day is the Zinfandel project of Ehren Jordan, the wine maker behind Failla, Neyer's, and Turley wines. In 2004 he decided to start his own project and did so with his first love, Red Zin. It is a delicious expression that is full-flavored and bodied, but also balanced and nuanced. Ehren knows what he is doing! This wine begins in the El Diablo vineyard, head trained old vines that yields smaller amounts of grapes, but better quality of flavor and complexity. You will get loads of delicious mid palate black fruit, some herbs that remind me of the garrigue of southern French reds, and a brightness that leaves the palate refreshed and ready for a bite. I would suggest that you try this with lamb or a rich mushroom risotto—or both! 

Testalonga comes to us from South Africa, the northern most reaches of the Swartland to be more specific. It is here that you will find Craig & Carla Hawkins, who are pushing boundaries of wine making in the region with natural production and traditional techniques. Sweet Cheeks is a Muscat d’Alexandre, farmed and produced organically from bush vines planted in 1952. They are situated in a wet region of Paardberg which allows for ripening the berries fully. There is skin contact on this one, but the skins were light in this vintage, so the color is still very light and golden to the eye. The wine goes through a full malo, so while it is very fresh and clean, it has a lovely creamy texture and flavor that balances it out. this wine would be stunning with some roasted fish, lighter meats, or a vegetable stew. 

I hope you enjoy your selections! 

Eat, drink, and think!! 

Cheers, Maria