summer fruit teaches valuable lessons

Whether for good or bad, patience simply is not in my DNA. In my defense, my Dad doesn’t have any either, so it’s not my fault. That said, I am not too old to learn and to change, and this past weekend, summer blueberries reminded me that a little patience has its rewards.

I was pleased to find among the bounty at the farmer’s market an abundance of fresh blueberries, so plump with that perfect balance of sweet and tart. I ate an entire pint like popcorn before we even got back to the car, so naturally when we stopped at Windmist for more provisions, I grabbed two more pints and started to think about dessert options. I also share with my dad a love of blueberries in all forms—like candy on its own by the handful, baked into pies, cakes, muffins, or cooked to preserves for toast. I want them all. The options were endless, but one must make a decision, so I committed to Ottolenghi’s Blueberry, Almond, & Lemon Cake, which is easily found on the NYT Cooking App (get it!).

The recipe is not a difficult one, you combine butter, eggs, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla in your mixer, then add the dry ingredients (almond flour, regular flour, salt, baking powder) and add berries. I thought when I initially read the recipe, “why not double it, so we have some to snack on during the week?” (I am Italian, after all, this impulse to make more cannot be helped!) This question, of course, led to a series of other modifications and requirements that initiated my life lesson. Ottolenghi calls for a loaf pan, but I prefer a round cake, so doubling it also made sense for the 9 inch spring form pan that I have. For the next 3 hours, I questioned my decision to modify as I waited, and waited for the cake to finish cooking.

Ultimately, this recipe resulted in a beautifully textured, moist, lofty, delicious cake with a sugared crusted exterior that was irresistible, but it took forever to cook! Yes, this was my own doing. First, doubling means more time in the oven, but not just double, because I also changed the shape, so getting the center just right meant turning and testing repeatedly for nearly two hours beyond the recommended cooking time while turning the heat down, then up, then tenting, then turning the heat back down, and just tenting the edges, and so on. We took it out several times, thinking that it must be done, only to find raw batter when testing the center. I should confess that I did not read the recipe all the way through (refer to note on impatience above), so I folded all the berries into the batter, rather that following Ottolenghi’s prudent instructions to reserve some berries for adding to the top after 15 minutes of baking. The berries added moisture, which slows down cooking. In the end, it all worked out, so while I was pressed to learn some patience, I was also validated in my “fly by the seat of my pants” style of cooking, even when baking.

It was absolutely worth the wait for summer berries and for this cake! My last modification was to skip the glaze and opt for leaving it naked, which makes it more occasion flexible from breakfast to midday tea to late night dessert in the garden under the stars with a glass of something bubbly—yes, you know it, Lambrusco and blueberry cake is my new favorite pairing. I suggest the Albone with this cake, it mirrors the zesty lemon and the fresh blueberry flesh with a touch of sweetness that stands in for the sugared glaze.

I am curious to hear about your adventures in the kitchen, so please send along your favorite pairings so that I can continue to eat, drink, and think!

Cheers, Maria

eat drink & think with me on Instagram @newportwinenchz

Maria Chiancola
Enjoying Summer Abundance!

There are some things to be grateful for right now, despite the challenges. One of the positives is that we are all spending more time in the kitchen. I have had a number of people ask lately for cooking ideas, seeking inspiration for new combinations. I have found myself back in the kitchen at home, enjoying cooking again for my friends, and I am having a blast. (Tip #1: Don’t make a job out of your favorite to do!). I know it is a lot more work, but the satisfaction that we derive from a shared meal is better than any other culinary experience. So here are a few suggestions…

First of all, get to the local farmer’s markets or join a farm share. There are lots to choose from: Wednesday’s Aquidneck Island Grower’s Market 2-6 on Memorial Boulevard is my favorite because it is abundant and close to the shop, so I can walk over and fill up my market bag. This week I got eggplant, corn, tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumber, arugula, lettuce, herbs, potatoes and onions and more. There is so much to choose from right now, so let’s enjoy it!

Easiest meal? Caprese! Finally, the prized tomatoes are ready to toss with some beautiful fresh mozzarella, sprinkle it with basil from your pots or garden and then sea salt, drizzle with good olive oil, pour yourself a glass of rosé, and enjoy. If you like a bit more pop, I recommend a drizzle of Saba Balsamic Reduction, as the sweetness and acidity enhances the same flavors of the tomatoes.

This week, I got a couple of rib eyes from Martha at Windmist Farm in Jamestown (make the trip over there it is a treat), so I grilled those (charcoal!) and added them to the salad & threw a few ears of corn on the grill, too. The meal came together great and was easy and quick to make and to clean, especially if you have a few helping hands in the kitchen (choose your guests wisely!).

Grilling corn is easy, I peel back one side of the husk, drizzle water, close it up & grill for 8 minutes on a hot grill turning once. I have also had success husking it entirely, and tossing it on the grill, but you need to turn it every minute or so. This method gives you a char on the corn that is delicious, but reduce your time in half. When the corn is bright yellow, it is done. Don’t leave it too long! And, try to use the corn the day you get it, for the best results because; once it sits a day or so, it starts to get starchy. And, make a bunch. I can’t eat just one Cobb, and left over is great. Cook it & cut it off the cob, then you can add it to salads all week.

The other inspiration that I have for you is the Fearless Fish Share, which I have mentioned before. I highly recommend getting on Stu’s website & joining. You can pick it up at my shop on Wednesday 2-6. You don’t know what you will get until Tuesday, but then you can create and learn! I got local tuna this week, and just seared it with salt and pepper, two minutes each side in a hot pan. Then I deglazed the pan with capers, butter, and white wine—nothing new, but I added a little something. I reserved a little of the tuna, cut it in small cubes, and added that to the sauce & it was delicious. Admittedly, I didn’t actually “reserve” it, I just cut the steaks badly, so I had a little piece left over, but mistakes create motivation for invention! Don’t fear making them in the kitchen, just have fun, forge forward, and wing it! I served the tuna steak over sautéed corn & green beans that I just quickly tossed in butter to brighten the color, less then 2 minutes in a hot pan. You could do this with almost any summer vegetables to make a warm hash to provide a bed for fish, tofu, meat, or even grilled mushrooms.

I also have been baking! This shocks me, though I am not sure why. I love sweets. That said, I love all food. I don’t understand when people have a category that they just don’t like. When I hear someone say “I am just not a sweets person,” I think they have not had my mother’s biscotti, or Sophia’s cannoli, or a glass of chilled Sauterne…but I digress. I am a sweet and savory girl, bring it on. I have some fresh blackberries from one of my favorite customers, and I am going to bake an Almond Torte (which happens to be GF) and fold these berries into it, top it with some pine nuts, and after baking sprinkle with powdered sugar. Last week I made it with blue berries and drank Lambrusco with it (sigh and salivate). The inspiration is the ingredient, just find one that you want to cook with, and the recipe will emerge!

Okay, those are my ramblings on food and wine this week. I don’t cook with recipes generally, but I can give you more detailed instructions if you like. Just email me:)

Eat Drink Think & have some fun in the kitchen,

Cheers, Maria

Maria Chiancola