Having spent the majority of my adult life here in New England and loving fall above all the seasons, it is surprising that a trip to actually take in the foliage has somehow evaded me, until now. What was I waiting for?! Columbus Day weekend, I traveled to Southern Vermont with the singular purpose of “leaf peeping,” and I was truly awestruck.

Truth be told, I was a bit cynical (please act surprised), until now when someone from outside NE would ask where I went to take in the foliage, I would say, “Outside, of course!” It is true, we can see beautiful foliage colors in Newport, but the trip to Wilmington has taught me a thing or two about what a marvelous sight it is to see a mountainside swath of trees changing colors as they dry in the fall sunshine before being swept away by winter’s first winds. It was magical.

In addition to being swept away like a curling leaf in sun drenched winds, I was blown away by some of the food we ate. I am pleased to tell you that the charming town of Wilmington and the surrounding area has a lot to offer—from simple and satisfying to truly elevated cuisine. I swear, mountain air makes me hungry, and there were many options for delicious ways to satisfy my appetite. I will give you a few suggestions for eating and drinking during your next trip up north:

1. Deerhill Inn is a lovely spot to make yourself at home for a couple of nights. Owners Arial and Scott will welcome you and offer you plenty of ideas about how to meander through your days and evenings in the area. It is a simple country inn with lots of cozy charm and spectacular views of the Green Mountains with Haystack and Mount Snow just a hop, skip, and a ski jump away. They have a skilled chef on staff who promises a delicious, hearty breakfast at the very civilized time of 8.30-10. I highly recommend the buttermilk pancakes, which were as big as my head and I ate every bite without shame. They also offer a full dinner menu with New England fare prepared with locally sourced ingredients. The food was outstanding and while the wine list is somewhat limited in size, it is very reasonably priced and offers a few good options. Admittedly, the experience evoked Bob Newhart, and I was waiting for Darrell…and his other brother Darrell! Tip: Ask for Tamarack, it is a great room. 14 Valley View Rd, West Dover, VT 05356 https://www.deerhillinn.com.

2. Need another coffee to start the day while your walk thru the local flea market? There is a tiny cafe, The Coffee House at 247 Vt 9 that will provide a delicious cup of joe and an apple cider sugared old fashioned donut that will rock your world. Don’t worry you will walk it off meandering thru the stalls at the flea market across the street. Many treasures! I found a copy of the Bloomsbury Group Cookbook—I didn’t even know they had one, but you may know my affinity for all things Virginia Woolf, so that 50 cents well spent.

3. For a quick burger and a cold beer, try MLT, Maple Leaf Tavern, on Main Street right in the center of Wilmington. It is a no frills spot that is ideal for taking in a game by the bar, or watching the activity on the street from their big sun-filled window seats by the bar. The burger was grilled, so it had a nice char on it, and it was a perfect medium rare.

4. Just need a beer and place to watch the game? Head to the Willmington Village Pub, just across the way from MLT on Main Street. You can enjoy a sausage sandwich on the back porch and watch the river run through town (photo above), just sitting in the sunshine, and then play a little pool and enjoy a local Vermont beer. This is a local bar, as it should be, welcoming, easy, and simple. The owner and staff were chatting it up at the bar and even allowed me to get into the conversation about Sunday football! I felt like a local, which gave me great pleasure. These guys have karaoke, too. (And, no, I didn’t. I know my limitations!) https://wilmington-village-pub.business.site

5. Hungry for a bit more of an elevated culinary experience? Try Cask & Kiln at the intersection Route 100 and Main Street. The chic design will make you feel as if you were in Manhattan, the service and knowledgeable staff is welcoming and fun. The inspired menu is compelling. We finally narrowed it down to the spatchcock chicken with pommes frites and a bottle of Crochet Sancerre. It was delicious, tender and beautifully plated for us table side.

6. One last suggestion, make your way over to Manchester, where you can sit and have a delicious brick oven pizza and a great bistro reds amidst unique and interesting furniture both used and new, but all gorgeous. Was a great cap to our weekend away! Depot 62. 515 Depot Street.

Keep watching for more of my suggestions for eating, drinking, and thinking your way through the world. This journey is just too much fun not to share with all of you. Have a suggestions for me to check out? Send it along, please, all this research is exhausting, I would love the help;)

Cheers, M

the stone walls are the frame for the most wondrous sites

This blog post began September 30th, 2019  because I was disappointed with a meal, and that disappointment has driven me to action.  I saw a cover shot of steak frites on Food & Wine last month that made me desperate to eat the dish.  I did my research, and I trusted a source that will remain unnamed, but you know who you are, and you are misleading a nation (shame, shame, shame).  Needless to say, I was disappointed with one of New York’s highly respected restaurants.  I won’t name it.  That is not the point of this article.  I won’t politicize this, I am just going to correct the problem. I am going to find the 10 best steak frites in the Northeast and share it with you.  I won’t be swayed by famous places or people...it is about the ability of the dish to satisfy the senses and that alone. 

I am not sure exactly why, but there is a phenomenon that is happening, and I am completely caught up in it.  I dream about my next steak frites, and I am on the hunt for what I think is the best, or at least the top ten most satisfying. I should mention that as a recovering vegetarian, perhaps I am driven by even more force than people who have been enjoying steak their whole lives.  This is important to me.  I am not going to call it religious, for fear of sounding outrageous, but inside, I know this is a spiritual journey. 

Ok, let’s begin with criteria. Not seeking culinary tyranny, I am open to a norming session.  For you gastronomic intellectuals, I say, “bring it on.”  I am not just seeking the best steak frites, but also culinary enlightenment.  Perhaps my notion of “good” steak frites is clouded by some cultural, political, or culinary force that has shaped or misshapen my perspective, so please share your ideas about cut, temperature, sauce, and style of fries, as well as garnish.  I am opening this conversation to you all. I am just getting it started because I know what is at stake here folks (yes, that was entirely intentional). 

I will take your suggestions, form my list of qualifiers, and let you know how the dishes stack up!