One cannot write at length about a pot of simmering gravy and not think about Chianti, so naturally it follows that I will write to defend this often overlooked wine. I admit, there was a time when what was available here in the US made this region….well, questionable, but those days are long behind us. There are few reds that are so versatile, in my mind, and it is because Chianti is complex and not easy to define. It offer s a lot: a medium to full bodied red that is fruity, earthy, and hyper tannic, with lots of wonderful acidity, all of which means that it pairs really well with a lot of different meals. It can handle fat and high acid tomato, sweet vinegar flavors, char, rich meats, and bitter herbs. It is so versatile and easy.

For those who don’t know much about Chianti and are keen to learn, I will give a crash course:

1. It is the most widely recognized wine, according to my favorite wine education source, Wine Folly. Interestingly, despite that, many folks don’t know what the grapes are or even where it comes from.

2. Chianti is a region with many sub appellations in the heart of Tuscany.

3. The blend is primarily Sangiovese, blended with Caniolo, Canaiolo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and white grapes are no longer allowed.

4. depending on the sub-region the wine is aged anywhere from 6 months to a couple of years in oak barrels before bottling

5. There are aromas of tart cherries, oregano, espresso, and cured meats, with flavors of bitter herbs, aged vinegar, subtle smoke, and red fruits. On the finish you will experience tennis, a dryness on the palate that invites your next bite.

What I love about Sangiovese in Chianti in particular is the freshness and the nose. This is a red that has intensity of flavor with weight, it maintains a freshness that makes it delightful with food of all sorts. In addition the freshness, the nose transports me to Tuscany, where the earth is scorched by the hot sun and the sky is particular blue that I have not seen anywhere else, with a touch of purple behind it—perhaps it is the light reflecting off a glass of Chianti.

My ultimate pairing is the gravy I described in the last post, rich with meat and oil, smothering an enormous pile of spaghetti, followed by a salad of bitter greens with a balsamic vinaigrette. That is just me, you can try this with a roasted pork loin, a post of cassoulet, roasted duck breast. Yes, there is a theme, the wine wants meat. But fear not, my vegetarian friends, chef up a big pots of pasta fagioli with its of tomato and you, too, will swoon. Or take my Dad’s advice, and just make some popcorn—this classic pairing it is delightful and easy;)

I have a few favorites, so I will share them with you. In addition to the Carparsino that you saw in the previous post, which I absolutely love, I adore the wines of Villa St. Anna, where Simona makes a delicate fresh Chianti with supple smooth texture and just gorgeous fruit. The nose on her wine is so distinctive. Having visited her in Montepulciano, I know this comes from her cave, where the earth grows on the walls and the aromas stir into the wine magically. I must also mention Paterna, another small producer whose care and craftsmanship is clear on the very first sip. The wine is precise, and yet seems effortlessly to pour from the bottle simple, delicious, and satisfying. When you want to splurge a little, grab the Montevertine—you will not regret it. This unique property produces a seductive Sangiovese that has a gamy quality to it, so roast some duck and dive in!

All the wines are available right now at the shop, and Chianti’s are available for every table, regardless of your budget, we have you covered. Come in this and try one!

Come in and stock your pantry!

There are few things that bring me more comfort than a big pot of gravy, simmering on the stove, filling the room with the sweet scent of caramelized tomato (and yes, I said gravy). For many, gravy invokes something brown poured over turkey, but if you grew up in an Italian home in the northeast, gravy is what other people refer to as tomato sauce.   For me, the smell of gravy cooking has the same visceral experience that Proust had when biting into a perfect madeleine; it transports me with its aromatic delight back in time to my mother’s kitchen. 

Imagine a quiet Sunday, you walk to a warm, sun-filled kitchen, and a large pot is simmering on the stove.  You are tempted by gravy stained spoon soaked with hints of the various meats that await, slow cooking in a pool of tomato, and the weighted scent of roasted meats and reduced tomato intoxicates you.  You look around; you are alone, so you lift the lid, revealing the treasure.  It bubbles and sends a small splatter onto the stove top.  As you look for a towel to remove the sign of your trespass, you spy a loaf of lofty, thin crusted Italian bread and note that the heal is already torn off.  One cannot be expected to resist such temptation, but you must act quickly.  You swiftly tear off a hearty handful of bread—no sense risking the consequence for just one bite, and you scoop.  The bread soaks up the gravy, and you feel the steam rise to your eyes as you taste the rich, thick, meaty gravy.  You close your eyes and smile, wiping the thin drizzle of oil from your chin. 

Of course, if my mom had caught me that Sunday would quickly cease to be so quiet. Truth be told, I believe she secretly loved that we all swooned when she cooked that pot of love. That was how she found purpose, feeding us. This past weekend, a friend kindly invited me for some “macaroni and meatballs,” and I had no idea what I was in store.  It was as if she had made it herself, and it was sheer delight. The pot was brimming with fist size meatballs, sausages, the most tender bites of steak and pork, all stewing together to form the most remarkable flavor...and it is all so simple. The meal was a reminder of shared family moments. 

This time of year calls for a big pot of gravy, and my friend’s generosity reminds that we must share the love in that big simmering pot, so here is my mom’s recipe for anyone who wants to give it a shot. Keep in mind, she never cooked a little pot of gravy, so cut it down if you wish, but you will regret it. And, yes, we have great cans of tomato at the store, crusty bread, and macaroni in all shapes and sizes. 

Ingredients: 

6  28 oz cans of San Marzano Tomato  

1  8 oz tomato paste 

4 cloves garlic 

A small onion 

A bunch of flat leaf parsley 

Olive oil 

Instructions: 

Over low-medium heat, coat the bottom of a large heavy bottom pan with good olive oil (I throw in butter, but my mother would have killed me! I leave it up to you.), and add your finely diced onion and garlic.  You want them to sweat not brown, takes about 12-15 minutes. 

Add your tomato paste, and crank up the heat to medium high, and brown it.  You want it to stick to the pan, so don’t worry when it looks brownish.  You will smell, it is a fantastic moment when this caramelizes.   

Add the tomato, rinse your cans a little and throw the water in, too. 

Stir to combine, cook over medium heat for 30 minutes.  You can use a spoon to break down the tomato. 

Preheat your oven to 300. 

Add the meat—all of which should be cooked (email me if you need these instructions).  She would have added brascioles, meatballs, sausage, and roasted pork and beef (or some combination depending on the day). Use a cheap and fatty cut of meat, it will slow cook in the tomato and fall apart.  Don’t shy on adding the fat from the pan. Arguably, my mom actually made tomato confit!  

Place covered pot into the preheated oven and let it cook for a few hours, checking and stirring occasionally.  It may need a little liquid, pasta water serves great for this purpose, but you can also add a little more tomato. 

Remove from oven and allow it to rest before serving.  When you are ready to serve, add a bunch of fresh flat leaf parsley finely chopped.  

Serve with a macaroni of your choice.  For my mom, it would be rigatoni, unless she assembled all into lasagna. 

Or, just tear off some bread, rip it open and fill it with slices of meat and load it up with gravy, sprinkle with parmesan, and pour me a glass of Chianti.  I will be right over!