Posts in Still Cooking
Preparing for the Tuscan Table

I was seeking some inspiration for my Tuscan Table wine class this week, so I sat down with a pile of cookbooks yesterday to see what I could find. Have you done this? It is so fun to just pour over the pages of beautiful books full of fabulous recipes, seeking the one that you both want to eat and have the time and energy to cook. Often those two things don't match, but I always seem to find something, and yesterday was not exception. I found it in Jamie Oliver's "Jamie's Italy," rotolo di zucca e ricotta. I knew that I would be highlighting Sangiovese at the class, so I needed a food that would have both the intense flavors and the textured richness of the region. The recipe was perfect, and I have always wanted to make the dish. I highly recommend the cookbook, by the way. He is fun to read, much more narrative style, and the recipes are fairly simple and the ingredients readily accessible. No, eye of newt, if you ow what I mean; those recipes are not for me.

This one calls for a basic egg pasta recipe for the pasta, greens, butternut squash, and ricotta, along with a few spices and herbs...I can't in good conscience give you the whole recipe, but the whole book is great, so grab it!

it was so fun to make this...but it took a little time, so give yourself a couple of hours of prep time. Nothing too hard, just time to roast the squash, sauté the greens, make pasta and let it rest...

first the pasta...Kitchen Aid to the rescue!

Jamie, and yes, we are on a first name basis, recommended a specific flour, which I found at Whole Foods, and it made a beautiful dough, so I suggest that you seek it out. I am going to try to find it for the shop because I want it for holiday cookies!

Once the pasta is all set, I just had to assemble the ingredients and roll it like a jelly roll.

It was easy to handle, surprisingly. Then you wrap it in a towel, secure with string, and boil in a large pot. I used a roasting pan, and it worked like a charm.

It simmers for nearly 30 minutes, then you remove, unwrap, slice, and garnish with clarified butter and fried sage leaves.

Have you ever fried sage before? It is so simple and delicious, they get crispy in the clarified butter, and they add a wonderful pop of flavor, salty and intense.

It looked pretty good on the plate, and was perfect with the Sesti Brunello de Montalcino that my guest was kind enough to bring along.

The bright, fruitiness and the dark intensity if the Sangiovese was so perfect with the flavors on the dish, the saltiness of the pork tenderloin, the crips buttery sage, the bitter greens, and the sweet roasted squash all became even more satisfying with the addition of the wine.

Thanks, Jamie, this one is a keeper, and thanks for the inspiration...which chef's inspire you to cook, eat, and enjoy wine with friends?

cheers, Maria

Holiday cheer lingers with a few last stale biscotti

With the holidays behind me and finally a moment to relax and think about all of it, I am struck by a couple of moments that involve food and family and friends.  The most prominent and perhaps pleasant thing to recall are the Christmas cookies.  I do not want to appear non-pc, but they are Christmas cookies, not holiday cookies, so even though I am decidedly not Christian, I am going to stick with that name.  These recipes are amazing both because they have been handed down from one home cook to another over several generations and because they are really damn good; and, on top of that, for me the preparation and distribution of these little treats is the greatest gift of the holiday season. Okay, I will admit it, I love the kudos I get for my cookies--go ahead, gush, I love it! A little history, first of all, I am Italian (an identity I previously struggled with, but now embrace), so if you have an Italian cook in your life, you understand.  We take cookies pretty seriously both in quality and volume…no easy cookie, no small batches. Since I skipped Christmas last year (story for another time), I took it on in full force this year.

For starters, I wanted to spend some time getting back to my roots, so to speak.  So I joined Grandma Rose and Aunty Mary for a holiday meal (yes, the ravs of which you have already read) and some cookie baking.  My Aunt, known affectionately as Zia, makes a fabulous ricotta cookie that I was dying to learn to make. Sharing recipes requires that you bake with the cook...so if you want my recipes, get your ass in my kitchen next year and help!

Her recipe is her own, so I cannot detail it here (yes, we take that part seriously, too), but it is fairly simple. “Ricotta Rolls,” require a dough made with ricotta with a stuffing made also with ricotta (hence the name)that is spread inside. It requires no frosting because it is brushed with an egg wash, which is why I say simple...but it is delicate, flaky, and subtly sweet--so good, and it pairs nicely with a glass of earthly red wine.

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We had a great day of making cookies, even Grandma Rose enjoyed the fruits of our labors with a small glass of nebiolo (the Deforville; if you have not had it, run don’t walk).  The cookies are delicious, but what is special about the day is sharing time together and laughing so hard my checks hurt.

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What is funny about cookies, you might ask? Well, first Grandma Rose hands me a measuring cup so old it has no marking left on it.  When I point out to her that I cannot tell how much ricotta to use, she laughs, well more of a quick vocal burst of judgment that reads something like, “ha, you silly child, get out of my way, who doesn’t know what a cup of ricotta looks like…” I suppose I will get there, someday…we all need goals to strive for.

Then, there is Logan.  Sorry, Zia, but he is quite possibly the ugliest little dog I have ever seen.  He waits for snacks, but snaps at me if I get too close…not exactly the Christmas spirit…”hey, you gonna eat that…give it to me and no one gets hurts.”

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Lastly, though in no way least, Zia, watches me work the dough, “oh, not that much flour, honey”; or,  “I don’t do it like that, but okay”; and, finally, and with great relief, “that is okay,” though delivered with a little doubtful head tilt.  Okay, I mentioned we are Italian, right? In the end, Grandma Rose, said, "not bad."  That is the kind of approval we strive for;) Hey, what can I say, not all Italian Grandmothers gush; it makes you stronger! And, that is why I need the rest of you to do that. (yes, Chris R., you gush appropriately, and will be permanently on the christmas cookie list...okay, I will explain, Chris described himself as a drunk in the alley with my cookies as he motioned with his hands shoveling them into his face with his mouth wide open to receive the bounty.  I love you, Baby!)

The best comedy was my aunt and I practicing for our own cooking show…I could share but we are still working on the pilot.

The next day I began my own production, and I am proud to say that all 9 types and nearly 100 dozen cookies have been distributed and hopefully consumed (that is not a typo).  Seriously, friends, if they aren’t as good as you say, I won’t burden you with them…but I love the feedback that I am getting.

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Whatever fills your holiday with fun, smiles, and laughter, remember it fondly throughout the year because it is that which gets us through the rest of the craziness.

Do you have a recipe to share? Let's have a cookiefest 2012...details to follow.

Merry, happy, joy, for whatever you celebrate!