Responsible Indulgence--September 2024
Pressed for Thought
Over the last month, I have learned so much. I have bottled my 2023 reds and begun the harvest for my 2024 wines—reds, whites, and rosé! I am reminded why there is a difference between small, independent wine makers and the big, commercial producers. At the risk of repeating myself, I am just going to say that small is better, full stop.
Every day, I go to the winery and put my hands on every wine, whether it is to stir the lees to give the wine some texture and a little more weight on the palate or to punch down the cap or to get in the bins and tread on the grapes to extract flavor and aromas. Maybe I stir to give it a little air, to nudge the fermentation along. I look at the surface of the wine, the color, the tiny bubbles that tell me it is fermenting. I take in a big inhalation through my nose to see what I smell—is it still fresh and tangy, which indicates a healthy fermentation. I put my ear to the whole of the barrel, listening to the whispering buzz. And, I taste it, again and again. The flavors are all over the place from very sweet at the start, when it is still just grape juice to the tart, bitterness of the end, when it goes dry.
At each stage my senses are the gauge of what to do next. Yes, there are, of course, more high tech scientific testing options that are available, which can tell you about sugar levels, alcohol, your acids and nutrients, but people have been making wine for 8000 years, most of that was well before the laboratories existed, so I prefer to let the wine tell me what it needs to become the style I am looking for. Yes, the winemaker does have a role in this.
I often say that wine making is not that difficult, and I believe this. If you begin with healthy, delicious fruit, you don’t have to do much. Put the grapes in the bin and let them ferment, then press and bottle. More or less, this is true; however, each step has several small decisions that will shape the outcome. It is in these moments that a winemaker’s touch informs the style and quality of the wine.
Today, I decided not to inoculate my Riesling, against the advice of a few far more experienced winemakers. Not that I don’t trust them, I do, but I just have a preference for natural fermentation. It has always been my preference to allow the native yeast to kick off fermentation. The main reason is that wines that I like to drink are made this way. The difference, for me, is twofold—philosophical and practical, both have an impact on the style and quality of the wine. For one, the less I manipulate, the more pure, more natural, and honest the wine will taste. This is the philosophical, of course, but there is an impact on flavor, quality and style. The less manipulated, the less strain on the wine, which allows the wine to express itself. Keeping it simple and using native yeasts, the ones that exist on the grapes and in the winery will almost always ferment more slowly, allowing for more complexity of the aromas and flavors.
All of this work is inspired by the wines that I have been enjoying over the last sixteen years, and those I continue to find for the wine club. My apologies for the delay in this list, but here are the September wines!
The Value wines include the 2021 Stereo Blanco is a blend of Airen ( a local varietal form central Spain, Viognier, and Sauvignon Blanc. It is easy, aromatic, and fresh with loads of lemon and lime zest. The finish has the minerality of wet stone and invokes a little of the aroma of fall in New England when the dry leaves scrap against the pavement in the cool breezes that are pushing summer along. Enjoy it with some pan roasted fish.
The other Value white hails from South Africa, the 2021 Wightman & Sons Chenin Blanc offers a more full bodied white with stone fruit, honey notes, and rich almond, all balanced by intense acidity that is typical of the varietal. The Chenin is from three distinct parcels ranging from 15 to nearly 60 year old vines, which gives the wine complexity and layers of flavor and aromatics, as well as character. Is it possible that a wine can have an old soul? I think so after sipping on this one! Try this with some roasted summer squashes, slow cooked pork, or vegetable lasagna.
If you want something cold, but prefer just a touch of color and tannin, then grab the Radley & Finch Rosé. Yes, this is a return to the club because of its value but also its perfect style for the last days of summer. It has all the summer berries with the addition of melon and saline, ocean minerality. Take this one to the beach for a picnic of charcuterie and cheeses.
For the reds, I selected three the 202 El Mono Tempranillo that is youthful and fresh with wonderful depth of flavor from the twenty-five-year-old vines, red berries and bright cherry aromas with cacoa and spice on the finish. Smooth and spice enjoy this one with some short rib or grill night. If you are seeking something a bit more full bodied, try the 2020 Domaine Piquemal Cotes du Rhone, a classic Grenache blend, this one has all the red berry but also plummy notes and wonderful citrus to lighten the intensity on the palate. Like the Tempranillo, it can handle red meats, but also lovely with roasted lighter fare or with vegetable gratin, which the farmer’s market encourages you to make right now!
If full bodied is more your vibe tonight, enjoy the 2021 La Raz Barberac, a bold and supple red from the Dordogne in the Southwest of France. It is a blend of Bordeaux varietals—Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Malbec. Intense, dark and spicey. I am clearly in the mood for a little spice, but it is that time of year to warm up our table with some spices. Maybe it’s time for a cassoulet!
For the Select Wines, I begin with the 2021 Courtade Blanc, a blend of Rolle (or Vermentino) and Semillon. I love this combination because it is unique and brilliant. The Rolle is bright and fresh with floral aromatics, stone fruit and bright acidity, which makes it ideally suited for Semillon, which is round and soft, more melon and pear, but also saline and herbs. They complement each other beautifully. It is a wonderful accompaniment for shellfish. It is time for savory whites, so I also selected the 2022 Frecciarossa Pinot Grigio, and before you say another word, chill it, and try it! Poor Pinot Grigio has gotten a bad rep, but it is an elegant and delicious easy drinking white ideally suited for shellfish, salad, or a charcuterie platter. Take this one with its citrus and ripe apple, toasted almond and herbal notes to Polo on Saturday and don’t forget your hat!
For rosé, I selected the 2023 Big Flower Rosé of Cabernet Franc from Stellenbosch. It is lively and packed with flavor—berry, watermelon, floral, and savory notes-it is dry and impactful. I suggest enjoying this with some salmon and the last tranche of tomatoes. Don’t worry it will provide the ideal canvas for the fat of the fish and the bright acidity of the tomatoes. Just smear a little cultured butter on a slice of fresh bread and dive in!
Fall flavors lean into the richer styles of cooking, so the reds have a bit more spice. To begin the 2021 Fram Cinsault is light to medium bodied red that you can chew on. The importer describes the fruit as “crunchy,” a description that gave me pause for thought. What does that mean, but as I sipped it, I understood. The wine tastes of fresh bright, tart berries that are supported by tannins that invoke the stems and seeds more than the barrel. I can almost imagine biting into one of the grapes and feeling the pop and crackle of the mature seeds inside. It is one of the indicators that the grapes are ready to harvest. What better wine to enjoy at the time of our harvest! This one is ideal for roasted butternut squash with crumbled goat cheese and fresh pomegranate seeds.
If you are preparing some richer, meatier dishes, then grab the 2020 Langa Pasion Garnacha or the 2020 Mas des Infermieres Luberon Rouge. These wines have an intensity of fruit—berry, blackberry, plum—with pepper and anise. Yes, they share some flavors, but what is different is the style, a result of the work in the winery. The Pasion has an undeniable modern style, fruit forward and deliciously satisfying. The Mas des Infermieres is decidedly old world with loads of ripe fruit, it is still the structure and acidity that stands out to me. I love them both and curious to hear which you like better, or if like me, you are happy on the fence!
For the more elevated experience, indulge in the Collector picks for September. Talk about riding the fence! This month, I selected a California Pinot Noir and a white Burgundy, bit these two wines actually dance very nicely together.
The 2022 Assiduous Pinot Noir has all that spice that I have been craving, but wrapped inelegance. The word means made with great care, and that is precsiely how Keegan Mayo works. He is fastidious about his wine making which allows him to make wonderful wines that are unfiltered, unfined, and unadulterated, to borrow his own description. Matt Kettman, of WE describes it “Slightly hazy in the glass, this bottling from a historic vineyard in Corralitos enlivens the nose with aromas of freshly smashed melons and raspberry alongside elegant floral elements and a peppery spice. The sharp raspberry compote flavors of the palate are lifted by mace, sumac and rose petals, making for a very engaging sip.” Keegan is as generous personally as he is in his wine making. This is sure to please in its balance and finesse and tense flavors. Enjoy it with some roasted duck breast.
If you are feeling sassy, you might begin the meal with the 2018 Thibert Saint Veran Champ Rond. This brother and sister team have a wonderful story... “The story of Domaine Thibert reads like a veritable saga. This family of artisan winemakers has been living at the heart of Fuissé village since at least 1668.
Both from a long line of winemakers, Andrée and René Thibert started with a tiny plot in 1967. In 1991, their son Christophe came back to the Domaine, and his sister Sandrine joined him in managing the Domaine in 1999. Leveraging their deep-seated knowledge of the region’s vineyards, the inter-generational knowledge and their experience, today the wines of Domaine Thibert reflect and express this “savoir-faire”.”
Indeed, the approach is to allow the wines to be expressive of their natural habitat. The result is a wine of intense bouquet that is compelling and charming with soft citrus notes, floral aromas, apples, pears and minerality. It sees time in neutral oak, which is just judiciously used. The minerality on this wine sings of its limestone and sandstone origins. Enjoy it with just about anything! Seriously, it is a food flexible wine, but give it food, it will reward you!
I promise more timely notes in October, but the harvest is keeping these hands very busy. I hope you are enjoying the fall, wherever you are reading these notes. Uncork something delicious and take a bite, and continue to support wine makers who are not manipulating the wines, but rather give you an honest, pure, tasty wine to elevate fill up your senses!
Cheers, Maria