Responsible Indulgence-May 2024
Pressed for Thought
The buds are breaking and the birds chirping, the color of green is varied, bright, and full of life. It is as if you can see the leaves and the grass growing as you watch. The forsythia bursts yellow, my garden is stretching out to greet me, and the squirrels seem to be prancing playfully from the tiniest limbs. How do they support them? The miracle of the change of season excites me, and it makes me hungry! My appetite increases with longer days, more walks and bike rides, and with each deep breath, I think about what I want to eat. Spring veggies, roasted lamb, seafood chowders, and big salads. Bring it on! Last night I prepped some fish stock for a clear broth clam chowder for the weekend. I feel like the Barefoot Contessa, but I know “Steven is going to love this!” I will pair it with the new Trebbiano on the list. It will give me all the fruit to balance the salt along with the minerality to match those clams.
I am pleased to say that the wines on this month’s list will nearly all be new to you. I hope you will find some excitement in them, as I have already. New like spring, but also fresh and a bit light on their feet to keep us active and moving forward. These wines also have intensity to give us courage that will help you feel free and agile like those mischievous squirrels scurrying along the most precarious routes without a glitch!
Enjoy!
cheers!
May Wine Notes
For the Value wines this month, I was striving for freshness, even in the more full-bodied wines. I am not opposed to strength or intensity of flavor and even richness of body, but I want freshness, particularly when it surrounds me. The 22 Gorgo Custoza starts us off with charm and elegance. Trebbiano toscano (or castelli romani locally) imparts vigor and contributes to the wine’s body; cortese (or bianca fernanda locally) gives the dry, harmonious and fresh taste; garganega and tocai friulano add stone fruits and aromatics. It is brilliant in color with shades of straw and grass, robust aromatics, touch of tea, peach, and apricot. It is dry and persistent, excellent with clams, salads, light meats.
The 22 Colombi Falanghina would also pair with the chowder, just in case friends are over and you want a second bottle! This one has a bit more pop and ripeness. It is fleshy, and showy, but reserved in its ripeness, so not overbearing. It shows compelling minerality and citrus notes—both pith and pulp, even a little zest! Its floral aromatics are intriguing and so pleasant. It is ideal for shellfish, but also wonderful with some pulled pork tacos. The wine is tense and persistent, bright and fresh, it will add fruit and zest to your meal while cleansing your palate before the next bite.
Thirsty for a good value rosé? It is hard to beat the 23 Atlantique Rosé from Loire Valley. (yes, this is the home to great values, join my class in June to learn more!)
This wine is 100% Cabernet Franc, which is an ideal grape, in my mind, for rosé because it has all that alluring fruit with some structure and tannin texture. I love that balance. Similar to a pinot noir rosé, it is elegant and smooth. This has just a pale pink color, zippy acidity and watermelon candy on the nose. Enjoy it on its own, but it is also great with some fresh goat cheese!
For the reds, my spring line up has variety. Not unlike our wardrobe that feels the impulse for cotton, but still needs wool! The 23 Castle Rock Pinot Noir is produced from grapes grown in Oregon's Willamette Valley. Sheltered by the Cascade Mountains, this area is on the same latitude as France's Burgundy region, and in the past thirty years it has gained international recognition as one of the most prestigious appellations for this cool-climate varietal. This elegant medium-bodied wine offers aromas of cherry and spice. On the palate the wine has flavors of berries, cinnamon, black cherry, sweet vanilla oak, and floral notes, with a long velvety finish. This versatile wine pairs well with many dishes, but I had it with some roasted lamb chops and a big salad, and it was divine.
The 22 Zillamina Red is 100 % Monastrell from a certified organic farm in Spain’s Pinoso region. The wine is very bright and brilliant ruby color with a purple hue that suggests its youth. It is rich in aromatics, red fruit, earth, mushroom, and spices. The grape is known as Mourvèdre in France, where it exhibits some of the same intensity of flavor and depth. It can be dark and wild, but this one is more playful. That said, it is not delicate, by any stretch of the imagination, so enjoy it with grilled meats or a burger!
Should you seek something a little lighter, grab the 22 Alambar Pinot Noir from Chile, which has a smooth and alluring ripeness while it remains fresh. It has ripe cherry, blood orange, and juicy berry notes. It is a fruit forward style that is balanced with texture and complexity of flavor, all of which makes for a very intriguing Pinot from a region that is not known for this varietal. I would enjoy this one with a bowl of stewed lentils and some basmati rice.
The Select wines provide more complexity in flavor and style. The value comes in the layers of flavors. People often say that negotiating price point jumps is beyond their palate, but it is not so. You can tell, if you just take a moment with the wine. Value wines have delicious, but largely primary flavors of the fruit. That is likely due to the technique in the winery. Secondary flavors come from techniques like aeration, oak aging, blending, etc, all of which costs more money and elevates the complexity of the wine. While that is a relatively brief explanation, it is the long and short of it.
I often recommend to mix and match—maybe 3 Value and 3 Select or 1 select and 2 Collector...you get the idea. That gives you the chance to taste the difference and have variety. It also help you begin to differentiate between the varying levels of cost. You will develop quantitative standards with which to evaluate the wines. Sometimes a simple but delicious wine is exactly what you need, but other times, you crave something more complex, more elegant. The Select wines this month are exciting new additions to the shop.
For whites, I need wines that are expressing the transition of seasonal change. What does that mean? How do we define the nature of bud break? There are at least 22 different shades of green, bursting buds, and the promise of something new. For me this is expressed in the more aromatic whites, like 21 Bio Balthazar Minervois Blanc which is floral and citrus, but more specifically peach, apricot and orange. It is juicy and fresh with interesting pith and bitters, savory, herbaceous flavors on the finish.
The 23 Orsola Gavi is made entirely from the Cortese grape. It is another very aromatic grape. I think I am always drawn to these because of the wonderful floral and fruity smell that pulls me in. Truth be told, I don’t understand those who don’t like them! This wine has aromas of pear, apple, and citrus, as if you are walking through an orchard with a ocean breeze coming through and the warmth of the sun setting against the grass. Take all that in. I suggest you pan sear some salmon, lay it over a bed of arugula, and enjoy!
The Select rosé for May is a real treat. The 21 Sesti Rosato is 100% Sangiovese from a family that produces one of the best Brunello’s from Tuscany. I love their wines, and the rosé is no exception. It is a nice alternative as the warmer Spring days give us inspiration for something cold and refreshing. This is a gentle, smooth, risher style rosé ideal for these “in between” days with a little more body and intensity. It has cherry notes with herbs and citrus. I love this wine it a wide variety of foods, but most often with pasta simply kissed with a little pomodoro sauce and parmigiana.
The reds in the Select level offer you three distinct styles to mull over during this month designated for meditation. The 22 Granito Pais is a unique wine from the Itata Valley in Chile, and this one exhibits a rare freshness balanced with intensity that is the result of nearly 100 year old vines, planted in sandy soils over a bedrock of granite. There is a fine balance of cherry and berry notes with more herbal flavors, like anise and thyme, even leaning to sage. On the finish there is a tart touch of bitterness that makes the wine very compelling to my palate. I would suggest giving this one a little fat, perhaps a pork Milanese, caramelized leek quiche, or sausage and peppers.
If you are seeking a more intense red both in flavor and body, the 22 La Sena Vindemiatrix will deliver. Diego Losada is the grower and the wine maker, and he is making a name for himself after going out on his own with the La Senda project. The name translates to “the path,” apropos of a wine maker who forges his own way. His philosophy is to treat the wine as minimally as possible, and the result is a Bierzo of greater character and quality. He controls yields by green harvesting aggressively, removing bunches to achieve optimum ripeness and flavor intensity. It sacrifices quantity in favor of quality—and it is a regenerative way to farm more responsibly. The result is a wine with intense red fruit woven with flavors of earth, smoke, and spice. Pair this one with some grilled meats.
22 Bois de Boursan "Le Petit Oursan" In 2015, Jean-Paul the owner and wine maker, acquired some acreage outside the town of Joncquieres, which is roughly 10 kilometers northeast of Chateauneuf-du-Pape en route to the Plan de Dieu. This is special terroir and the wine reflects that. In addition to a small planting of Clairette, the vineyard consists of 1.8 hectares of Grenache, 0.6 hectares of Syrah, and 1.3 hectares of Merlot, planted between 25 and 35 years ago. This are is cooler than Chateauneuf-du-Pape, with soils of gravelly clay, and Jean-Paul uses these vines as the basis of his "Le Petit Oursan"—a play on both the word "ours" ("bear" in French) and his family name. Comprising 75% steel-tank-raised fruit from these Joncquieres holdings and 25% de-classified Chateauneuf-du-Pape vinified and aged in cement. The Grenache gives it the juicy character, the Syrah structure and depth of color, and the Merlot rounds it out. It is a wine that far exceeds its price point. I would pair this one with some roasted lighter meats, but a mixed grill of vegetables and fish would work too.
For those seeking an elevated experience, the Collector wines provide quality, complexity, and elegance with the option of aging.
The white is a single varietal that is not usually standing on its own, though does so with a style and grace that suggests to me that it should be done more often. The 22 Chemins de Bassac Roussane would shine with just a simple roasted chicken because of its lovely floral and melon rich fruit. It is pleasantly round on the palate with honeysuckle aromas and soft stone fruits. The wine is made by a couple who decided to leave behind the hectic life of architecture to make wine in the south of France. I love this varietal on its own, which is unusual to see, though I am not sure why, as it is delicious, complex, elegant, and quite unique in its flavor profile. You could choose to pair this one with a plate of cheese and fruit, add sliced prosciutto and call it a night!
For a rich, ripe red, the 21 Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas is a powerful wine that still exhibits freshness and balance. It is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault from one of my favorite appellations. The Southern Rhone and Gigondas, in particular, has the benefit of intense sun and altitude with cool evening temperatures and the Mistral winds. The wine is powerful with notes of blackberry, red plum, ripe cherry, and dusty thyme; it has a wonderful texture that borders on creamy, but a clean finish. Ideally suited for red meats, roasts, or roasted duck.
Salty Sunshine & Ocean Mist
It is just my suggestion, but if our spring weather is leaving a chill in your bones, try a bowl of RI Clam Chowder. This is the clear broth version, lighter than the creamy style of Boston and more comforting than the red broth style of New York. I like them all, but this is my favorite.
I pick up a pint of minced clams whenever I am in Bristol at Andrades and keep it in the freezer for just this recipe. It is a quick version of this chowder. If you are feeling more ambitious, by all means, get fresh clams and do it all, but if time is tight, this works!
Dice ¼ pound of bacon and cook it in 2 tablespoons of butter over medium-low heat until it has rendered its fat and is browned. Remove the bacon and set aside on paper towel, save it to garnish your soup.
Add a diced large Spanish onion and 2-3 ribs of celery, reduce to low and cover, allowing the onion and celery to sweat and soften for 10 minutes.
Add 12 red bliss potatoes cubed in small bite size pieces and 1 cup of white wine.
Note: don’t reduce wine that you don’t want to drink! If it doesn’t taste good before you reduce it, it certainly won’t taste good after you do!!
Raise the heat to medium and simmer 5 minutes, then add 4 cups of good fish stock (also available at Andrade’s) a few sprigs of thyme and a bay leaf.
Once your potatoes are soft, about 10 minutes, add the pint of minced clams with the juice. Heat though, roughly 5 minutes. Don’t let it boil, your clams will get tough.
If time allows, turn the soup off & allow it too cool at room temp. Thsi iwll help the flavors to meld.
Later that same day or the next...return to medium- low heat & heat through to serve.
Garnish with those crispy bacon bits, some finely chopped parsley, and lots of oyster crackers.