Responsible Indulgence: July Wine Club & more
I am Pressed For Thought
Thinking has always been part of my being. It shapes my intention and purpose when selecting, curating, and selling wine and foods at my shops. Seeking products that will inspire you to eat, drink, and think is my self-assigned job description. In a world that is constantly pressuring us to do, to move, to make, to go, I want to stop and just think. I like thinking. I think about where the grapes come from, who planted them and tended them, how the people work together to make it into a wine that tastes good, and then what to prepare to bring that wine to the table and elevate its beauty, and then think about who will come around that table to share it. Each step is a moment of creativity, imagination, communion and beauty. These notes are the why, how, and what inspires me to do that.
For some, thinking is a chore, but for many of us, it is a natural impulse and creating something artful with that impulse gives me purpose. I am always pressed for thought (yes, about everything), and these pages give me the space to share those ideas with you, so you can kick back and just eat & drink. Thank you for reading my musings. It is my hope that you learn a little and get inspired.
sketch by Steven Andersen ,“Turn the Handle”
July 2023 Wine Notes
It is a time to celebrate, and while we celebrate independence this weekend, there is a broader feeling of freedom in the air. It is warm and sunny, so it is time to shed layers, jump in the ocean, take long walks under the stars. The kids are out of school, vacations are upon us; it is a time to travel, to play hooky from work, and to be a little footloose and fancy-free! Put on your flip flops, let your to-do list wait until the rain returns, and get out in that sunshine.
My wines this month feed this impulse to be light and free, they were selected for quick menus that will neither imprison you in the kitchen nor weigh us down after we eat. Whether you are enjoying a salad from the bounty of the farmer's market, some fish, summer squash, or steaks on the grill, stay light on your feet, ready to jump in the water, on your bike, or your board!
As usual, the Value Wines are easy, approachable wines that are simple, delicious, and great on their own or with a meal! As always, I select wines from producers who are working in harmony with nature, responsible and sustainable, and always, above all delicious wines that are intended to enjoy with food! I hope you find something that makes you want to eat drink and think!
20 Cantina Numa “Tolenus” Rosso Piceno is part of a collaborative project by Cristina Fausti and Domenico Angelo, working just ten hectares of property planted in 1998 in the Marche region. This DOC is right in the calf of the “boot,” and is known for producing tasty wines with some punch. Tolenus is no exception with 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese, it will awaken your senses with loads of berry and cherry aromas and flavors, vanilla and tea, herbs, and a touch of pomegranate. It is intense, but not overbearing with a smooth body and finish, surprisingly balanced and complex for a value red. Try this one with burgers on the grill, tomato tart, or just a hunk of Vermont Cheddar.
22 Petit Balthazar Blanc is a 50/50% blend Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc with beautiful aromatics of lime, exotic fruits and an appealing creaminess. Think lemon curd and fresh honeysuckle. This wine is refreshing and crisp, but also complex and textured. It far exceeds the modest price point. I would enjoy this with some ramp pesto...the recipe is at the end of these notes!
22 Petit Balthazar Cinsault Rosé is the second wine from this producer in the Value pack, and that reflects the tremendous value of the wines. This rosé will surprise you with its complexity and it herbal notes. Its pinky pink suggests a simple beach read but hold that judgement until you start reading. This 100% Cinsault has all the strawberry and cassis that you expect form the south of France, but then it also has herbs, like mint, lemon verbena, thyme and lemongrass. It is refreshing and tasty, and it would pair well with an asparagus tart. There is a great recipe in Nigl Slaters Greenfeast: Spring/Summer page 120.
21 Roto Cabernet Sauvignon is a new one for the shop that I welcome with open arms. From central Valley in Chile, this red will delight you with its big bold fruit and balanced freshness and chewy fruit. It has 10% Syrah and 3% Alicante Bouchet both of which provide brightness, acidity, and texture to the bold Cabernet brambly fruit. If you are grilling some meats, this is the go to red for you. It is full bodied and flavored with deep red fruits, which is idea for summer grill parties. Throw some burgers on the grill & crack this one open. It is a crowd pleaser, so buy two!
18 Azimut Red will be a good choice if you are seeking a lighter bodied red. This is a red blend from Penedes in Spain where the temps can result in a ripe wine, but this one remains light, fresh, and a little rustic. It has red and black fruits with a little orange peel on the nose and a peppery spice on the finish. I imagine a grilled salmon, some corn and tomato salad, and some charred shishitos.
20 Costieres de Pomerol Le Montalous Blanc will give a refreshing glass on a hot afternoon. This comes to us from a cooperative of many winemakers in an area just west of Montpellier on the Mediterranean coast of France called the costières or “broad terraces.” It is a limestone plateau that is home to many vineyards filled with Picpoul de Pinet. It is a light, simple and delicious wine with lots of apple and citrus notes, a hint of jasmine, and lots of zippy acidity. It is great with oysters, crudités, salads, or just on the beach, icy cold!
The value wines have their place at the table, and satisfy without question for that everyday wine that is reliable and tasty. That said, at times we seek something a bit more serious, then go to the Select level. These are wines with more complexity that are able to elevate a meal, transform your palate, and engage you in a more thoughtful experience. It is good to have wines at all levels on hand, so the wine pairs with the occasion as well as it does with the food.
20 Oddero Vino Rosso Convento is a rockstar at this price point. This is the entry level red for a family long steeped in tradition and quality in La Morra, in Barolo, Piedmonte. It is a blend of Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo, all grown in a vineyard that is around the cellar at Santa Maria. The varietals are fermented separately with Dolcetto and Barbera blended in concrete and the Nebbiolo in barrel, assembled in late Spring. The result is a complex wine that has a violet, berry and earthy combination that is so compelling. Fruitiness from the majority of Dolcetto, layered red berry and cherry notes from the Barbera, and finally a touch of grip and structure from the Nebbiolo. It is a stunning wine at the price. This is a very flexible food wine, but this time of year, I imagine it with a platter of grilled zucchini, eggplant, ramps, and peppers, all drizzled with a good olive oil, some toasted thick cuts of bread with and herb rubbed grilled chicken.
21 Stadlmann Gruner Veltliner is a new one to the shop, and I am loving this wine. I have always been a fan of Gruner with its alluring fruity aromatics, soft entry of tree fruits, loads of minerality, and a nice bright acidity on the finish. It is somewhere between a Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay, and it is great by itself or with a wide variety of foods. What makes the Stadlmann interesting is the elegance. It is grown in limestone, which may be the contributing factor, as more opulent versions are often planted in soils of loess. Whatever the reason the wine has a smooth, chalkiness with a lovely salinity that is fantastic. Yes, an easy wine, but this is a busy time, so in alignment with our theme, throw some oysters on the grill until they open just enough to remove the top, spoon a few drops of jalapeño butter on top, and enjoy!
22 Chateau d'Oupia Rosé comes from the best hillside soils in the Languedoc. The Iche family never disappoints me with wines from Minervois that range from value to more select qualities, but they are always delicious. This rosé has raspberry, strawberry, and even a little watermelon, but also tangerine and blood orange, and a vibrant, sturdy core that gives structure to these playful fruits. The finish is fresh and clean with notes of that blood orange dredged in sea salt. Enjoy this one on its own, don’t complicate things! If you are hungry, try some fruited crackers with some chevre.
21 Pas Saint Martin La Pierre Frite Blanc is 100% Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, in the village of Doué la Fontaine in the region of Saumur. Laurent Charrier and his mother run the domaine, following the traditional methods set by Laurent’s Grandfather. The wine has a beautiful concentration of flavor in a very clean wine, a result of the process of debourbage, which is a clarification by way of allowing the lees to settle at the bottom of the tank and then racking the wine. It is a simple form of clarification that does not involve the chemicals often involved in filtering. The wine is clean, fresh, and elegant with concentrated flavors of apricot, pear, almond, and orange blossom honey notes. It would be ideal with scallops, pean seared and tossed with peas and aromatic rice.
20 Cantine Gulino Fanus is a blend of Syrah and Nero D’Avola, bringing together two varietals that are in and of themselves very powerful and intense. It is a pleasant surprise that two grapes of such intense character play so nicely together. The flavors harmonize into a concentrated but balanced red that is velvety but structured, spicy and fruity, and very satisfying. This is a sexy wine with rose and berry on the nose, but cherry and brambly fruit on the palate, and an earthy, persistent finish. The choice of stainless steel for its fermentation keeps the wine fresh and lively. It would be ideal with a mixed grill of vegetables and meats with a rough chop pesto to dip thick slices of charred bread into.
19 Domaine de Fenouillet Vacqueyras is made by the Soard family, now in the fifth generation of wine making as a family estate. Their philosophy is a simple and commendable, “to work [the]land as healthily as possible in order to pass it on to future generations.” Their approach is to work in harmony with nature, and the results of their efforts are consistently rewarded. This cuvee bespeaks the sun drenched, clay earth of the southeast of France. You can detect the intense Mistral winds and their chalky dryness. The fruit makes me heady and happy with its concentrated black cherry and brambly fruit balanced with cassis and the brightness of acidity that make this a wonderful food wine. I am going to make an asparagus tart with goat cheese and crème fraiche to enjoy with this rustic red.
For those more serious wine moments that warrant reaching for something more special, the Collector level this month offers depth of flavor with two robust reds. The two wines hail from vastly different areas, but what they both offer is a generous, powerful, rustic red that is acid driven and balanced with structure and complex in flavor and character.
The 17 Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rouge comes from the outskirts of Saint Cyr-sur-Mer, which lies directly on the Atlantic between Toulon and Marseilles, and the ocean’s impact is in style and character of the wine. This bold red, composed of no less than 95% Mourvedre is kissed by the sea and the sun. You will smell the ocean air and the garrigue of the region. Ruby red in color, floral notes and honey and bright red fruits on the nose, there is a touch of bacon fat for me, too, which is pleasing scent. Then the fruit on the palate which is magical, generous, and round, and it lasts, with a final grip of tannins that bear fruit and dusty thyme. It is an exceptional wine that comes from 45+ year old vines, so the dense fruit is concentrated, mature, and complex. Black currants and rps tannins make me want lanm with this one, so make some kabobs and couscous!
The second wine in your collection is from a much younger wine making family, who founded Vigne Guadagno in 2010. Two brothers, Guiseppe and Pasquale make the 15 Vigne Guadagno Taurasi in Avellino, Campania. This mountainous region is surprising for Compania, and gives the wine unique character. At 550 meters above sea level with loam-clay soils and a long growing season, this Aglianico has time to develop slowly. It has elegant red berry and black fruit. It is intense on the nose, but the tannins are softer than you imagine. It has the structure to age, but is drinking pleasantly right now. The cedar and tobacco notes call for red meat, or duck, but a mushroom risotto would stand up to it, too. This is a young winery to watch, they will grow and the wines will quickly reflect a price that is aligned with the quality, so take advantage of the modest price for this wine.
Ramp Pesto
These curious alliums are all over the tables of farmer’s markets right now in the Northeast, and I love them. You can throw them on the grill and enjoy them with a touch of char, or if you feel like some pasta, which I almost always do, make a quick pesto with them!
1 bunch ramps
1/2cup olive oil, or more as desired
A handful of toasted pine nuts
1 pound of fresh arugula
I like this one a little rougher than my typical pesto, so I just combine it all in a food processor and pulse it until I get the texture that I seek. Serve it with an aromatic white like Viognier or a bright, fresher style light bodied red like a chill on it.
The Satisfying Taste of Green—A Cookbook Review
I am a big fan of Nigl Slater’s style in the kitchen and at the keyboard. He is a free spirit in the kitchen, so he is aligned with my “cooking without recipes” approach to food. If you have not read him, I highly recommend all of his books. Most recently, I am preoccupied with the two volumes of Greenfeast. It is a vegetable centric, though not entirely vegetarian cookbook that is designed for simple cooking for small gatherings—like yourself and done other. He refrains from proselytizing, but his book helps us refocus the plate, giving the vegetables the leading role. I like this approach, as well as the style of recipes.
Most are a handful or less of ingredients and many don’t even have measurements, but rather they have brief explanations and entertaining stories. The photographs are by Jonathan Lovekin, and they are as compelling as the prose.
Available for $26 from Kitchen Arts & Letters, https://www.kitchenartsandletters.com/search?type=product%2Carticle%2Cpage&q=greenfeast. I have it in the lending library at the shop.
Speaking a New Language
a poem by Jay Bragan
I’m speaking in a new language, its cherry,
black currant, plum; an elegant bouquet.
When they ask me who I think I am I say
Leather and smoke with skinny legs. Yes,
I see deep ruby mid-day, pale gold all night.
I stroll about on graphite, granite and clay.
I come from wet stone, and there we may
appear austere, a Carmenere, but my day
breaks full bodied and round in Beaujolais.
This heart is vegetal and lush, a Tempranillo,
and with acidic syntax I crave the profound,
the robust, the one life to live Sangiovese
that keeps opening for me a juicy, jammy,
viscous, complex, opulent, Sonoma, Napa,
Walla Walla, Williamette, biodynamic day!
Should you find yourself in my camp, pressed for thought, then share your notes, photos, and imagination with me @pressedforthought or PressedForThought.com. I will include them in the next issue.