Regardless of the source of the emotion or even the direction it takes, Italians cook to feel better. I have a friend who is seriously ill, and there is very little I can do to fix his condition. He will recover, but I am deeply concerned and in the absence of any purposeful way that I can contribute to that recovery, I am cooking. I suspect he would appreciate that.

It is Sunday, so it is a nice day to devote myself to the alter of the kitchen—chopping, slicing, cleaning out the fridge and freezer, cooking for anyone who will eat it. I found some escarole at the grower’s market yesterday and some ground beef, so Italian Wedding Soup it is. Like most of the things that I like to cook and that also bring me comfort, I return to the recipes of my youth and family. This is a soup that I loved when my mom made it for two reasons; first and foremost, hot meatballs straight out of the oven. There is nothing more satisfying than bitesize freshly roasted meatballs.

Say what you like, I roast them. Many people fry them first. I like those, too, but I prefer the texture and the thin layer of crust that forms when I roast, so that is the recipe I will provide. If your prefer to fry, then make them as you would.

Prep your soffritto, this is a simple aromatic mix of onion, celery, carrots, and garlic (if using), which you dice fine and start soups, sauces, stews, braised dishes with. It is not unlike its French cousin the mirepoix, though ratios and ingredients vary slightly. (You can look it up, but use what you like, and dice it your liking.) Honestly, you cannot mess this one up.

That said, here is how I make it: 2 small onion, 1 shallot, 5 cloves of garlic, 1 carrot, 1 celery stalk. All diced.

Make your meatballs (again, you probably have a way, but here is mine, and it is directly from Judy with little modification because if she did anything perfectly, it was her meatballs.) Mix, 1# ground beef, 1/2# ground pork, 1/2#ground veal, 1 heaping handful of bread crumbs, a little of your onion and garlic from above (to your taste), an egg, a heaping handful of parmesan, salt and pepper liberally. Mix and form small, bite size balls, place on a half sheet pan and roast at 400 degrees for 8-10 minutes, until they are nicely and evenly browned. Remove from the oven and let them sit while you make the soup. (yes, eat some of them, it is a sin not to!)

Heat your soup pot, add enough olive oil to coat the bottom well.
Add the onions and shallots, cook over low heat covered until soft. You are sweating not browning. (While this is cooking open a nice aromatic white wine—I chose an the 2019 Meyer-Fonné Gentil. Pour a glass for yourself to sip on while cooking)
Add the celery and carrots, cook again covered, low for another 8-10 minutes.
Add the garlic, cook for 2 minutes, and then add the escarole. I large head is enough. Turn the heat to high.
Add your escarole, which can be chopped roughly, stir over high heat for a minute and then add a 1/2 cup of wine. It will quickly bubble and deglaze any bits on the bottom of the pan.
Add 6 cups of stock—I used some chicken stock I made last weekend and had in the freezer.
Allow to heat through and sit on simmer for 10-15 minutes for the flavors to meld. I added a few pinches of finely ground sea salt and a lot of freshly cracked pepper. Taste it first, then season as you like.
Serve with some bread and a glass of the wine.

The soup pairs nicely with the Gentil, which is a blend of Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Sylvaner, and Pinot Gris. The wine has a dry expression, though I suspect it has a pinch of RS. You cannot tell, its acidity leaves your mouth watering and wanting another bite. It has wonderful exotic fruit and pear and citrus, loads of acidity, and a little coriander spice; it matches and complements the flavors of the soup beautifully.

This makes a substantial pot of soup, so share it! I brought some to friends because as much as I love to eat, I prefer to feed and nourish others.

Cooking to Feel Better