Responsible Indulgence—August Wine Notes : Eat Your Vegetables!
It is hard to believe how quickly summer is moving along, but here we are in the beautiful days of August and I find myself inspired by the bounty of vegetables available from our local farms. You probably already know it, but I will remind you that buying from local farmer’s markets not only supports local producers, but it also means that you get more nutrients, as most grocery store vegetables have traveled an average of 1200 miles to get to you. (That number shocks me!) In that time, natural vitamins and nutrients break down, so the food is simply less nutritious. That means you need to get out to one the vibrant beautiful markets for your veggies while you can! I am a firm believer in eating all things, buy responsibly and enjoy, but there is no arguing with the health benefits from eating our veggies and they really make the dish.
Ok, I am getting down off my soap box for now and climbing back up on the wine box. While I believe that vegetables should not be an afterthought of the meal, but rather as critical to the meal as anything else, they are not always the easiest to pair with wine. The challenge with vegetable focused plates is wine pairing. It is more complicated because of the subtle, delicate flavors and the more astringent and acidic nature of vegetables. That isn’t going to stop this wine lover, on the contrary, I rise to the occasion. I have been experimenting with dishes and wines this summer, and in the August Club selections are my picks for some wonderful wines that pair great with a wide variety of vegetable dishes. So, listen to your mom and eat your vegetables!
In the Super Value 3 pack, I start you off with the NV Broadbent Vinho Verde Rosé with a wonderful little spritz that balances the subtle watermelon fruitiness of this deep pink rosé. It is tart and fresh, and it pairs great with a Greek salad with loads of feta and olives and bright vinegar. It has all the acidity to stand up to higher acid vegetables like tomatoes and cucumbers. Similarly, the 2019 Castillo de San Diego Palomino, from Bodegas Barbadillo, is bright and zippy. The grapes are grown in the chalky soils of the Sherry triangle, but the wine is unfortified and fermented in stainless, so it is clean, lean Palomino, with loads of fruit but lighter and fresh, which makes it ideal for pairing with Spanish tortilla and a salad of roasted red peppers. Don’t fear bold reds with vegetables because all of those wonderful dark leafy greens welcome your big reds, like the 2020 MDZ. 100% Malbec from a rocky and sandy soil Mendoza vineyard that sits 3000 feet above sea level. These rough conditions produce a wine that is rich in texture, fruit driven, with loads of berry and cocoa, and long herbaceous finish. It is unoaked and fruity style Malbec, which means less tannins, so this one can handle some heat—bring on those chili peppers!
I have been gaining an appreciation for the world of heat, realizing like with most things, when done right, the addition of heat in any dish adds a layer of complexity and balance. Heat and spice play very well with fruit, so whether white or red, go for fruity choices. The summer table likes heat, whether grilling or sauteing, chilis add flavor and spice and excitement. I start small, but if you are fire fearless, go for it! The 2020 Berger Gruner Veltliner offers soft abundant fruit on the front, clean and crisp on the finish it has all the classic Gruner flavors of green apple and citrus, with a great earthiness. The wine wants food, and while it is quite content paired with a gem lettuce salad, it is joyful with spicy Thai lettuce wraps, so get that wok!
If you are grilling with some spice like Harissa and want a lighter bodied fruity red to join in the fun, grab the 2019 Chateau d’Oupia Heretiques out of the Value Box. This is an old vine Carignan Grenache blend fermented whole cluster in concrete for 3-4 weeks, producing a fruity, playful wine that is gentle and subtle, but flavorful and juicy. Grill, pop, and enjoy! If your veggies are inclined to an Italian style preparation—perhaps you make a quick summer marinara, there is no better choice than Sangiovese. The new vintage of the Dante di Firenza Chianti is a surprisingly lighter than years past, but still has wonderful intensity and freshness. I love it with a slight chill on it. High acid vegetables need a high acid wine—this time you want to pair likeness, so neither one gets lost. Tomatoes are a good example, but also artichokes, asparagus, lemons, basil, and berries, all of which are abundant right now, so keep some Sangio on hand and throw some garlic there, too!
In the Select Box, I have stuck with some of the same varietals, for all the reasons above, but these wines offer a touch more finesse. For starters the 2020 Mesclances “Charmes” Rosé, which is sourced from the vines that abut the two streams that intersect on the estate. It is classic Provençal style rosé made from Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Tibouren. It is fresh and red-fruited, pale in color, bright in acidity, and effortless to enjoy. I liked it with a pesto last week, loaded with basil and pine nuts, with a torn buffalo milk mozzarella ball on top and diced heirloom tomatoes. I might have to have it again tonight. It is a magical combination of crisp, tart, salty and creamy.
The two whites in the Select box were chosen with one ingredient in mind—Corn! It is here, I am happy, and I cannot get enough of it! Depending on your preparation you could go two different routes on the whites: Grunder Veltliner, fresh, fruity, brighter, or the Queen, Chardonnay, rich, creamier, full bodied and luscious. Both wines have loads of minerality, which may be a foil to the creaminess of the corn, but they both dance beautifully with this welcomed ingredient in their own unique way. The 2019 Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Kamptal is an elegant, fruity glass of wine with a youthful freshness. This is likely the result of grapes sourced from two distinct areas of the Kamptal vineyard—some offering maturity and the other freshness, but they both contribute to a complex wine with stunning aromantics and character. The corn will welcome this GV, but should you want to add a little richness to your corn, grab that Chard! The 2019 Clambake Chardonnay is a ambitious project that my dear friend Mary McAuley started in California in 2013 when she recognized a need for a well-made, affordable, food driven wine to go with your clambake. She is a North Easterner, so she values the culinary achievement of good clambake! She succeeded in producing a delicious unoaked single vineyard Chardonnay with style and finesse. It has all the fruit and a touch of creaminess that gives your clambake—and in particular, your corn, a wonderful accompaniment.
The reds in the Select Group were chosen for their amiable and approachable quality, as vegetables require that easiness in a wine. When I pair wine with any food, I want them to work in tandem with one another; at times creating a harmony and at other times allowing each other to dominate the rhythm of the meal. Perhaps a bite makes you pause while you chew to draw out the enjoyment of the flavors, and later, it is a sip of the wine that captures your attention. In a perfect pairing, you’re smiling often, totally unaware whether it is the wine or the food that is charming you.
If you are aiming at mushrooms and other earthy ingredients, look no further than the 2018 Alfredo Maetsro Vina Almate to enjoy with your meal. This lively Tempranillo is made from 80-100 year old vines that are grown at approximately 1000 meters above sea level in Castilla y León, outside of Madrid. I talk a lot about small production, and I am serious about the way that small hand-crafted wines are just better because of controls. There are only 1600 cases of this wine made. That sounds like a lot if you are drinking it all, but in the word of wine, it is tiny. Alfredo Maestro’s method is defined by a commitment to craftsmanship, and the result is a pure and classic Tempranillo with red fruits, freshness, floral aromatics and a mineral finish. Grill those mushrooms, slice some bread, grab a hunk of Manchego and enjoy.
For a fuller bodied, bolder red you have two great options: the 2019 Trefethen Eschol and the 2016 Villa St Anna Vino Nobile. These wines are quite different in flavor profile and style, so select based on food choice. If you are enjoying your vegetables with a bit more protein and fat—like potatoes Anna or a gratin of cauliflower, then go for the California Bordeaux style blend. Trefethen’s Eschol has all five of the Bordeaux blending grapes, but it has modest tannins, so it won’t increase the astringency on your palate. The wine is fruit forward with clack brambly fruits that really assert themselves in a beautiful and alluring way. It is balanced with acidity and freshness that temper the boldness. That said, it would not hurt if you had a steak on the side on the side with this one.
Should you feel the impulse to enjoy more tomatoes (and, who can resist this temptation?), I suggest Simona Ruggeri Faroni's Vino Nobile from Montepulciano in Tuscany. Simona makes wine in the tradition of her family, who has owned the property for some two hundred plus years, along with her daughters, Anna and Margherita. Meeting Anna is one of the single most important moments in my wine career, she is quite simply inspirational. First, she sort of yelled at me for being late, and in fairness, I was. (Italian roads are not easy to navigate, and I am always late.) I felt a fear that was similar that of being late for Sunday supper at my grandmother’s house. The tension was palpable, but it dissipated quickly when we descended into the cellar and upon inhaling, I recognized the aromatics of her beautiful Sangiovese. I was dazed and giddy from the intense pleasure of that smell. It invokes salami, fertile earth, and cheese curds. She was pleased with my smile. I shared with Simona that I often enjoy a half bottle of her Vino Nobile with my dearest friend, who enjoys the same half bottle along with me on a Facetime call from many miles away. I explained that her wine brings Cyndie and I together. She seemed at that moment to forget that I was late. During our afternoon together, she was unrushed and generous of her time. She explained her approach, walked me through her winery and gardens, and she welcomed me into her home, where we enjoyed her wine along with some local cheese, bread, meats, with sun dried tomatoes and olives. Simona smiled as she talked about wine, her family, and the history of the land. She took a long, slow, thoughtful sip of her Vino Nobile, and she smiled, authentically joyful with satisfaction. “It is delicious, so fresh, so good. Don’t you think?” I did and continue to. I trust that you will, too.
For those opting for the Collector Level wines, you have two wines from Lopez de Heredia in Rioja, and you are in for a real treat. I choose them for their versatility. While they could easily be paired with meats, and even their winery notes suggest so, I think the wines will shine when in combination with roasted vegetables. You will want to get a deep, intense flavor, so turn the oven up and really get a dark, caramelized flavor. Red bell peppers, leeks, summer squashes, zucchini, eggplant, layered in a byaldi style and roasted together at a high heat would be stunning with this wine. Yes, a rack of lamb would be great, too!
The 08 vintage is considered a very good one for the DOC Rioja, and the winery reported a growing season that was without any major problems, which ia a gift for any grower. The result is wines of exceptional quality. What I love about this winery is their willingness to hold back the wines until they are ready to drink. You can enjoy this now, or hold on to it for another ten years easily if you can wait. For now, it is showing beautifully, expect a rich red, with vibrant red color and even a bricky quality to the color of the wine. It is rich and very dry with structured but supple tannins, which is why you want roasted vegetables for this one. If byaldi is too much work, roast beets, parsnips, and celery root, drizzle with some great olive oil and enjoy!
Cheers, Maria