Responsible Indulgence: March Wine Notes
I have been making it a habit to walk to work. It is one of the benefits of our community that I try not to take for granted. There are days the weather is a challenge, but I love this time of year for its impossibly complex weather patterns, dancing between winter and spring, invoking weather terms like a “wintery mix.” This may sound like a combination of winter greens for sautéing to most people in this country, but in the northeast it is a reference to the weather that makes us stronger! It is that time of year when I can walk to work feeling completely over dressed, and by the time I am walking home, we have three inches of snow covering the emerging crocus that I smiled upon finding earlier and I wish I had worn a hat. It is a time for layering in preparation for all weather. It is with the spirit of being prepared for both the winter and spring table that I made the March wine club selections.
To begin with, the wines that comprise our Super Value 3 & Value selections offer the chance to enjoy those last wintery meals, as well as dabble in some lighter fare. Try the 2019 Cabert Pinot Grigio for a white that tastes of spring. It comes to us from Friuli, and will surprise you with its impact of flavor and a bit more body than we typically see form a PG at this price point. When wines are fermented on the lees—“sur lie”— it means that the juice is kept in contact with fine yeast sediment for a portion or all of its aging before bottling. This enriched the texture of the wine. It is a technique that is used in red wine making all the time, but not always in whites. The result is more body in the wine. The whites for this month, were all selected because they offer a a white that is refreshing but more substantial in body, so they pair better with winter meals. 2019 Borgo Maragliano Chardonnay is another example of a value white that is both a lean Chardonnay, steel tank fermented, but left on the lees to give it body and a little lushness that makes for a versatile Chardonnay.
If you are seeking something with a bit more brightness, enjoy the 2018 Buil & Gine “Nosis” Rueda, a blend of Grenache and Verdejo that is fruity, fresh, and bright. Fruity does not mean sweet, for me, it means that in the balance of fruit, acid, and tannic structure, the fruit is the most prevalent. While I want these three elements in balance, they need not be equally represented. So this is a dry white, that has a fruity flavor. There are tropical fruits, like pineapple and ripe mango on the nose, with intense aromatics, and a bright freshness on the palate. I want to get back to grilling, and the weather is cooperating, for the most part, so try this with a grilled fish and rice dish.
For the reds, again, I am torn between the warmth of one day’s sunshine and the lingering chill in the air, but I am still hungry for full flavored reds for my meals. All three of these reds offer full flavors and exposure to wines a bit off the beaten path. The 2016 Brumont “Petit Torus” Madiran comes from the southwest of France, and I love it for the unique flavor profile of Tannat, the primary grape. The wine maker keeps this one fresh with steel tanks, avoiding the added tannins that oak can add. I don’t mind oak, but I am craving freshness right now. The 2013 Anciano Temranillo Reserva similarly preserves freshness by having a long cold fermentation, which despite is limited use of oak, preserves a freshness that balances this otherwise rich red. The result is a medium bodied red with lots of flavor and good structure. While this is a value red, it reflects the care of a Bodega that has been family run for many generations. The wine is vibrant and would pair beautifully with spicy foods, roasted or grilled meats, or just some jamon and manchego!
If you are going for the full flavored red, grab the 2018 Mission La Caminade Cahors. This one is a bit more wild, unleashed, and full flavored. Yet another delicious value wine that is produced organically and thoughtfully. The Ressès family has been producing wine here since the late 19th century—they know what they are doing. The region is known for robust reds, so they control that with steel and cement vessels, to soften the tannins and preserve freshness. It is supple, delicious and has a charm that far exceeds its price point.
For all levels, there was a Rosé Option to sub out or buy a bottle of last year’s release of rosé. 2019 Chateau Valcombe Ventoux Rosé or 2019 Peyressol “Reserve des Templiers” Provence Rosé are both being offered at a 25% discount for club members before releasing for everyone else. The idea of rosé a year in the bottle sometimes startles people, but fear not, it is worth enjoying. I often tuck a few aside to enjoy the year after release because they mature—well, the good ones do, and the result is a totally different experience than when released. As you know, I have a long and complicated love affair with rosé. The wines are exactly what I look for because they are easy approachable, food friendly wines with lots of fruit and good lively acid, and if they are good, and I mean good, good, they have a pleasant bitterness on the finish. The Peyressol is lighter, and the Valcombe a bit more rich and flavorful. The are both bone dry, refreshing, and mouth watering. In short, get one of each, enjoy them and dream of the spring that is breaking ground around us!
If you are seeking something with a little more finesse, the Select wines give you some options that will also help us during this transitional weather period. (When I began these notes it felt like spring, yesterday my bedroom window was frozen shut, and today I am walking without a jacket!) Essentially, I always think about balance, of wine and of wine with food, so when my food is richer, I need a wine that can stand up to it. I want a red right now that will stand up to full flavored dishes, but also has the acid and tannins to cleanse and support the fruit. This month three reds all have an intensity of flavor—robust juice, a brightness of acid that cleanses my palate, makes my mouth water, and tannins to give it structure to support the fruit. All of this has to compliment the food with similarities and/or intriguing contrasts.
I have included three “go to” reds that appeal to me right now because the aoffer freshness balanced with good fruit intensity and full flavor—2017 Chateau La Bourree, 2019 Dei Rosso di Montepulciano, and 2019 Fenouillet Ventoux Rouge. The Fenouillet is the lightest of the three with subtle berry and cassis notes, a nice touch of grapefruit pith on the finish makes this one super fresh. The Dei has been getting rave customer reviews, which is not surprising. Made by winemaker Caterina Dei with passion and expression, this wine is powerful and elegant. All organic, Pyugnolo Gentile (aka Sangiovese), Canaiolo & a pinch of Merlot, steel fermented and barrel aged, this one has all the intensity of Vino Nobile, but with a nice fleshy quality from the Merlot. She make you want to dance in the kitchen! La Bourree is hands down the most approachable value Bordeaux that I have ever had. It has been on my shelves since I opened, and this new vintage is as elegant and pleasantly powerful as always. Primarily, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, green harvested with a focus on low yields for quality, hand harvested, sorted for best quality grapes, cold fermentation, gentle press and extended skin contact all contribute to what is a powerful but well balanced wine that is intense but also elegant. All of these reds are going to please you with your lingering winter meals. This weekend, I have two meals in mind. I am thinking about steak pizzaiola to satisfy in the way that I still want to wear my leather boots a few more times, but I also ordered some fresh Maine lobsters because I am dying to wear my flip flops!
By next week it will be back up to 60 degrees, so you need a few things in your box to anticipate those early spring days. I have a few suggestions as meals start to find vegetables, salads, and lighter proteins as the focus. The white wines in the March boxes were selected because of their capacity to play nicely. With vegetables in particular. Vegetables offer some interesting challenges when pairing because of acidity and complex savory flavors that don naturally have fat to balance them. What is wonderful about certain wines is the way they can balance the flavors of food, complete the experience in a way. 2018 Hermann J Weimer Field White is a blend of Gruner Veltliner, Riesling, and Chardonnay from the Seneca Lake AVA. It is ripe, aromatic, and full flavored. This wine is a lot like a salad itself with flavors of fresh tart apple, watercress and tarragon. The texture is supple and the finish refreshing. Similarly, the 2019 Pas St Martin Saumur Blanc has complex flavors of fruit, sweet and savory.. Don’t think sweet like sugary, on the contrary, it is a subtle fresh sweetness like a fresh early spring apricot with honey notes and almond skins. Chenin is an under appreciated grape and often a great value for that reason. This one in particular is a wine that out performs its moderate price point. The flavor sings of spring, but it is the texture that gets me every time. Laurent achieves the texture by extended contact with the must and the lees for flavor and richness. From Loire, we head to Umbria with the 2019 Vignarco Orvieto,a blend of Procanico,, Grechetto, Verdello, and Malvasia. This one is a touch lighter than the other two, but it still has loads of flavor and character. Think arugula, lemon, and honeysuckle. All of these wines will sing with salad and dance with fish beautifully—-they will lead, not follow;)
For the two Collector Level wines, I went to Italy for a smack down between what is arguably Italy’s two most famous reds—Sangiovese and Nebbiolo. The 2015 Oddero Barolo and
2015 Caparsa Caparsino Chianti Classico Riserva are both powerhouse wines that drink like Mary J Blige
Singing U2’s One, a song that takes my attention away from any thing else no matter when or how often I hear it. Capturing all my senses, these wines makes me pause in a visceral moment of delight. They offer you an opportunity to contrast these two wine from the same vintage. 2015 had some challenging weather throughout Italy, but both Tuscany and the Piedmont rebounded and had enough sunshine and rain to produce solid vintages. The wines have a few things in common. They are hand crafted on family estates by the owner and family, they are both certified organic, and they are world class wines with impact without excess. The similarity ends when you sip, and the experience could not be more distinct.
The Oddero Barolo is austere, and needs some time in the open air to begin to dance with you. Open this one at least an hour before enjoying and decant, if you can. This family has been making wine on the estate since the early twentieth century, handing down the tradition from one generation to the next for seven generations. Cousins Pietro and Isabella have taken over and are commit to further raise the reputation of this venerable estate. They maintain the same traditional method of Nebbiolo production. Steel fermentation with a three week masceration, followed by 30-40 months in large and neutral botti. The result is a wine that is robust in flavor, powerfully intense, and deeply structured. I like the touch of spice that I get on this wine that adds for me a layer that makes in more part of the meal than an accompaniment. You will be rewarded if you lay it down, but with sufficient aeration, it is delicious now. If I were dreaming of a meal with this one, osso bucco would be my first choice!
On the other hand, the bracing acidity and muscular fruit of the Caparsino Chianti boldly and unabashedly forward, wooed me in a tasting room in Radda several years ago. I was on a journey visiting Montevertine—another favorite—when I happened upon the Caparsa tasting room in the small and magical village of Radda. The sun was shining, I was early enough to grab a little lunch and meander through the cobbled narrow streets, and with luck I saw a tasting room. Why not, I asked myself, and without a reason to stop me, I stepped in and asked if I could taste. My Italian is terrible, but I managed a “Bellisimo,” and she was pleased and to my, and subsequently your, good luck, it was available in the US. I recommend a meatball grinder with this one, or a pile of spaghetti with gravy that you sop up with crusty bread, you need nothing else to enjoy the intensity of this dense, chewy Sangiovese. Don’t misunderstand, the acidity of this one balances the fruit, it is not recklessly big, but bold in balance with its structure provided by acid and tannin. This one will knock your socks off now, but lay it down and hold it for a while for a real treat. When this one matures, it is leaner and more subtly held with all that intensity!
For you Food Lover’s, your bag has all the ingredients for a meal to dance with Sangiovese. The jarred tomatoes from Puglia will make you dream of fresh August tomatoes. Keep these simple with some of the Parma butter and onion, toss that paccheri macaroni & hit it with a little parmigiana reggiano, pour yourself a glass of sangiovese and smile!
I hope you enjoy this month’s selections and my newly designed wine notes. If you are seeking longer individual notes, you can find them on the website. I am working on writing those daily, hope to provide a resource for everyone who likes to shop with me. Thank you again for being part of my club and helping me to support these wonderful winemakers. And, thank you for inspiring me to eat, drink, and think,
Maria