Wine Notes: March 2020

 Maria’s March Wine Notes 

This month we have a focus on New World, featuring in particular, the wines of OSuth Africa along with others that are in conversation with these wines.  I do that so that can learn a little about the distinctions that make South African wine unique.  So, try the chenin from Radley & Finch and then try the Birichino and note the differences.  Which one suits your palate more?  What did you eat with the wine?  These practices will make you a more savvy wine shopper. Enjoy this month’s selctions, the wines are richer and more full bodied, as is required by this last bit of winter chill.  The signs of spring are on the horizon, but the chill of winter still calls for richer foods and full bodied wines that will pair with them.  I am pleased that on many occasions this month, wine maker’s notes have been available, and where I could, I let them speak here in the notes.   

Thank you for being part of the club.   

Cheers, Maria 

Value Wines 

2018 Good Hope Pinotage, Stellenbosch, South Africa.  Winemaker Ginny Povall started out with a protea farm that happened to have a little vines growing.  She was intrigued, and soon she learned to make wine.  Turns out, she is really damn good at it.  Ginny farms organically, in a north-northwest formation, at an altitude of 200m in Stellenbosch in the Western Cape province of South Africa.  The grapes were destemmed, crushed and fermented in open top fermentation tanks, with punch downs performed twice daily. The wine was gently pressed and racked to barrel for malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 11 months in 2nd, 3rd and 4th fill 300L French oak barrels. The wine has a dark brick red color, with aromatics—herbs, earth, fennel, and jasmine flowers—that compel you to sip.  The fruit is forward on the palate, and it is immediately pleasant, smooth and rich, but with tannins and acidity that complicate and nuance the experience.  The finish is earthy and prepares you for a bite of something with salt and fat. I suggest a steak, pan seared and finished in the oven with roasted rosemary potatoes. It would also be wonderful with a mushroom stew.  Check out New York Times recipe for mushroom bourguignon. 

2017 Fram Shiraz, Thinus Krüger crafts some really exciting wines from 3 different regions in the Western Cape. His Chardonnay comes from the alluvial soils of Robertson, the Shiraz from the dry-lands of the Swartland just north of Malmesbury and the Flagship FRAM Pinotage from the remote Skurfberg vineyard (Citrusdal Mountain) planted to sandstone. The Shiraz component consists of two vineyards, 80% of the Shiraz is located in sandy granite soils situated in the Joubertskloof in the Paardeberg, approximately 8km south east of Malmesbury, the second vineyard from the schist soils of the Kasteelberg 15km to the north of Malmesbury. The Mourvedre and Grenache noir from the iron rich laterite soils(also known as Kof$ieklip or Coffee stone) west of Malmesbury. 2017 was a very dry winter that lead to a substantially smaller crop in 2018. The Shiraz parcels were fermented and matured separately. The wine did spent 8 months in old 225 liter French oak barrels. No added acid, yeast or enzymes. During primary fermentation wines were pumped over twice a day to extract a lively tannin to balance the fruit concentration of the wine. The Grenache and Mourvedre components were unoaked and matured in stainless steel. A combination of savoury spice and fresh primary fruit dominates the aromatics and the palate of this wine. Omnipresent are the deRinitive Swartland Rlavours of fresh venison and Rlowers.
 A wonderfully complex wine even at a young age with Rirm yet elegant tannin. Drink now through to 2028 and enjoy with some stewed meat, mushroom ragout, or a hunk of gouda and Mrs. Balls Chutney! 

2017 Rotation Cabernet Sauvignon is always a crowd favorite with power, richness and elegance that belie its attractive price. Lively and bold Lodi Cabernet Sauvignon is complemented by ripe fruit and silky tannins from the addition of 10% Petite Syrah.  Fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel, the wine was aged for 6 months in 55% French Oak and 45% stainless steel, resulting in a spicy and herbal wine that amply rewards an immediate pop-and-pour!  I like this Cab because it is affordable and well made.  It is balanced, and without a heavy hand.  Enjoy it with a burger! 

2018 Radley & Finch Rosé. Radley & Finch is a range of varietal wines made by Thinus Kruger and Pascal Schildt.  The name was inspired from the famous book: To Kill a Mockingbird, but unlike the serious nature of the book, these wines aim to reflect a typical and light-hearted style of wine true to the most enjoyed grape varieties originating in South Africa.The motto is Optimism, beats the pants off pessimism. We want these wines to be an honest path for wine drinkers to delve into the special world of premium South African wines over time. The majority of the grapes for these wines come from the Voor-Paardeberg Mountain (1 hr north of Cape Town) and a small portion from Stellenbosch as well.  For the Rosé, Cinsault grapes that came predominantly from the Swartland and Paarl areas. Harvested in late January to mid February during the dry yet healthy 2018 season to retain freshness and vibrant primary fruit. Grapes crushed and left on the skins for a short amount of time, around 2 hours. Fermented in stainless steel tanks and racked off its primary/gross lees right after fermentation, Aromas and flavours all focused on the red spectrum, embracing the natural sweeter notes of Cinsault combined with a fine firmness on the palate and juicy fruit at the center of it all. This wine is made for early consumption in the company of glorious sunny days and good friends. Or interesting stangers that will soon become friends. Will pair well with any lighter al fresco style dining, but also pairs exceptionally well with more wine. 

2018 Radley & Finch Chenin Blanc. A combination of both bushvines and trellised vineyards, the majority of the grapes coming from the Agter Paarl and Swartland regions. The aim in the vineyards to achieve a balance that will ensure a balanced glass of wine in your hand. Natural fermentation on around 70% of the juice used to produce this wine. Fermentation lasted around 3-6 weeks adding more complexity to the wine. A good example of why Chenin has for a long time been the workhorse and favorite in South Africa but is now starting to be recognized all over for its versatility and brilliantly defined fruit flavors. Balancing white cereal and stone fruit with yellow citrus and hints of lifted spice. A wine that can will show the many sides of Chenin during the first year or two in the bottle, but ready to be enjoyed at this very moment. In South Africa a firm favorite with fish and seafood on the braai(BBQ/grill) and also a fine partner for basic, fresh produce pastas. 

2018 Mission de Comminade Cahors.  I included this wine because it is also an example of the kind of wine that inspires South African wine makers, whose heritage, viticulturally speaking, came from French Huguenots. This French wine is a little bold and wild, and has a touch of gaminess that is in good conversation with the New World wines in your selections.   It is deeply colored and has abundant flavor of cassis, blackberry, and truffle with a touch of spice on the finish.  It would pair wonderfully with any stew, think about root vegetables roasted to caramelization and you are on the right track😉 

Select Wines 

2017 Big Flower Cabernet Sauvignon. Ginny Povall cultivates 53 acres of which 24 acres are the protea flowers (South Africa’s national flower) and 12 acres of vineyards. Back in the late 1940s, it was the first farm in South Africa to cultivate proteas. Ginny has planted some Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot on this farm and the vines are just starting to show their true potential. These wines have a lot of poise and are fantastic value. The grapes were destemmed, crushed and fermented in open top fermentation tanks, with punch downs performed twice daily. The wine was gently pressed and racked to barrel for malolactic fermentation. It was aged for 11 months in 2nd, 3rd and 4th fill 300L French oak barrels. The wine has a brick red colour with a blend of violet, aniseed, and earthy fynbos notes on the nose. Fruit flavors follow through to the palate and are supported by lingering earthy flavors. The tannins are structured and balanced with a quite high, yet elegant acidity. These characteristics make for a soft and fruit-forward wine with varietal typicity. 

2019 Fram Chardonnay. Thinus Krüger crafts some really exciting wines from 3 different regions in the Western Cape. His Chardonnay comes from the alluvial soils of Robertson, the Shiraz from the dry-lands of the Swartland just north of Malmesbury and the Flagship FRAM Pinotage from the remote Skurfberg vineyard (Citrusdal Mountain) planted to sandstone. The grapes for this wine come from the area between Robertson, Bonnievale and McGregor. Lime rich soils make this area well suited to the production of high quality Chardonnay.The 2018 harvest came on the back of a very dry winter in 2017, crops were down in general and ripeness higher. The wine was cold fermented in stainless steel tanks and left on the gross lees for 4 months after the end of fermentation. Primary attack includes yellow lemon peel and citrus sherbet leading towards balanced but still prominent ginger and cinnamon spice. The palate displays similar bright citrus flavors on the front developing into stone fruit about to ripen.
 Will pair beautifully with summer salads, grilled root vegetables, roasted and barbecued seafood or most lazy evenings at home. 

2018 David & Nadia Rosé. David Sadie was born and bred in the Swartland and studied Viticulture and Oenology at the University of Stellenbosch. It was here that he met his wife, Nadia, a qualified soil scientist and viticulturist. David gained experience both locally (Waterford, Rustenberg and Saronsberg) and internationally (South Pacific Cellars – New Zealand, Chateau Quinault – France, Yves Quilleron – France). The tasting of Mediterranean cultivars and its regions made a lasting impression on David’s ideas and palate. David is a part of Swartland Independent Producers who believe in a natural approach with their wines. Some of the grapes David works with are harvested from organic vineyards and some from old bush vine blocks from farmers in the Swartland who share the same vision.  Produced by a saigneé/dejuice style from a variety of red grapes (Pinotage – 27%, Cinsaut – 27%, Syrah – 26% and Grenache – 20%). 100% barrel fermented and 100% malolactic fermentation. Aged for 9 months on lees before bottling. I love this one on its own, truth be told, but it can handle food.  It is not a “throw it back” kind of rosé.  On the contrary, it can handle richer foods and a lot of acidity.  Makes me think about a casear salad with grilled sirloin.  

2018 Birichino Chenin Blanc. This is a new one for the shop, and I am so excited to have it.  Here are the winemaker’s notes, “Jurassic Park - a bit north of Buellton in northern Santa Barbara County - is one of the few chenin blanc vineyards in California with which we are familiar that routinely produces wines with the vast array of tones of which the variety is capable. The 2017 sports a perfume of orange blossom honey, apple butter, brim- stone, and some peculiar precursor of lilac which activates not merely the olfactory system, but also the limbic system, auto- nomic nervous system, and other systems located in more distant sectors. Soil and micro-climate humidity during the 2017 growing season remained quite high through the growing season due to the enormous rains from the previous winter, contributing to the development of modest yet meaningful early botrytis. We last encountered these conditions in 2013 and produced a wine similar to that vintage - just off dry in the style known by the French as sec tendre - dry, yet tender. And as with previous vintages, this wine fermented in stainless steel without inoculation, and was aged until the following Spring in 8 stainless and 2 neutral Hungarian oak barrels.”   

The wines from Alex and John are elegant, so beautifully made, and delicious.  I am a huge fan of Chenin, as many of you know, because of its versatility and flavors of apricot, toasted almond, and honey notes.  I suggest this wine with a tapas style vegetable dinner, potatoes bravas with aioli at the center! 

2017 Brea Cabernet Sauvignon.  This is a cab that I recommend without reservation because it is classic California flavors with a gentler approach to the body and style of the wine.  The result is impact without steamrolling my palate.  Here are the wine maker’s notes, “This is our fourth vintage of Cabernet Sauvignon from Margarita Vineyard in southern Paso Robles. Margarita Vineyard is a beautiful off-the-beaten path jewel in Paso. It is located at 1000 ft. elevation and 15 miles from the Pacific Ocean. Some people may consider this area in California to be “too cool” to fully ripen Cabernet, but we believe it to be the opposite. The maritime climate affords us a longer growing season to help ripen the Cabernet without it being overly ripe. This is a very delicate expression of California Cabernet, with mild tannins in the background from the small berries. 

There is also a mineral core to this wine, a common thread that you’ll find in many of the wines from this vineyard making it unique. The uplifted seabed and calcareous nature of this vineyard helps to maintain a good balanced acidity in the wine. 

2017 Teutonic Pinot Noir, Crow Valley Vineyard.  Barnaby Tuttle is one of my favorite people, full stop, and he also happens to be a super cool wine maker who makes European style cool climate German varietals in Oregon.  I included this wine in the 6 pack because it is another varietal that is interesting to think about in the context of a conversation about new world wines made in old world ways.  This pinot is so well crafted, it has all the flavor components of pinot noir—dark cherry, raspberry, blackberry, mushroom, in a supple textured wine that is so easy to drink and yet so compelling to contemplate.   

Collector Wines 

2015 Domaine Ninot Rully.  Domaine Ninot is a family estate based in Rully in the Côte Chalonnaise. Since 2003 Ernell Ninot has been at the helm cultivating 10 ha in the Rully and Mercurey, a third of which are 1er crus. Ernell received the prestigious “best young winemaker” in Burgundy distinction. Today, she works along side of her brother, Flavien. The stand-out characteristic of the Domaine’s wines are their staggeringly fruit-forward profile. La Barre” is a special vineyard located on the plateau of Rully with clay and limestone soil. Hand-harvested from 30-year-old vines, this beautiful, single-vineyard white Burgundy is fresh, with balanced acidity tempered by a bit of weight. Judicious use of oak adds structure while preserving the wine's delicate aromas and flavors. There is a long, fruit-dominated finale. The grapes for "La Barre" are harvested by hand, so only the best fruit is selected. Erell then manually sorts the grapes to choose only the best for her winemaking. The vines average 30 years old, bringing concentration and complexity to the wine. La Barre is fermented with natural yeasts and raised in previously used oak barrels. 

Wine Enthusiast:  91 points. “Full in the mouth and rich, this wine has weight and intense spice while maintaining fresh acidity. The ripe fruit is already delicious, offering peach and melon flavors that are cut by the acidity. Drink from 2020.” ROGER VOSS 

2015 Forey Morey St Denis.  This is a treat, and should be enjoyed with food and friends. This is a Burgundy at its best, when all parts come together and sign in perfect harmony—powerful impactful flavor, delicate elegant touch.  While the 15’s have received less acclaim than the 16’s, wine makers loved this vintage, and this wine shows you why.  It has a softer body, I think, a suppleness that may be a result of a slightly warmer vintage.   The vines did not have to work as hard, eprhaps, and thus we have a gentle wine that is very approachable while still complex and compelling.  I like this wine with a simple meal, so it is the shining centerpiece, so keep it simple, roasted duck breast, some greens, and roasted finglerings, some crusty bread and good French butter—voila. 

Burghound notes:  "Régis Forey describes the 2016 vintage as "a massive struggle for the first half of the season and one of cautious optimism for the second. We got killed by the frost in most if not all of our vineyards but particularly so in Nuits. My total yields were between 15 and 17 hl/ha and a few vineyards weren't touched so that tells you just how bad the damage was in those that were. The attack of mildew that arrived in May and stayed for almost all of June is one of the worst that I have ever seen. After the middle of July better conditions arrived and thankfully they stayed until the harvest which I chose to begin on the 29th of September. The fruit was as clean as it was in 2015, which is to say largely spotless so there was not much sorting to be done. Better still, the fruit was quite ripe with potential alcohols that ranged between 12 and 13% so there was little chaptalization. I used around 40% whole clusters during what was an easy vinification and then used more new wood than I usually do, which is to say between 50 and 80%. As to the wines, they are structured and serious but more classic than say 2015 is. In fact the 2016s remind me quite a bit of a more concentrated version of 2014." As I often do given Forey's straightforward opinions, I agree with his view of his 2016s. They offer excellent quality and are fashioned in a robust style with a dollop of new wood that usually requires 2 to 5 years to ultimately integrate. Forey noted that his 2015s, revisited below, were bottled between January and March 2017. I would further comment that his 2015s have turned out slightly better than I foresaw as they seem to have picked up freshness. Tasting note: The wood regimen is subtle if not invisible on the markedly floral-inflected nose of both red and dark currant aromas. There is once again good volume and richness to the solidly concentrated flavors that coat the mouth on the serious and moderately tannic finale. This is really quite good if you can give it at least a few years of cellar time first. 89 points. 

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